What is an uninterruptible power supply and how to choose one? A brief educational program on using a UPS manufactured by APC Using an uninterruptible power supply for a PC

Before you buy a new UPS, you should familiarize yourself with some of the “internal” aspects of its operation. And in order for the source uninterruptible power supply served you for as long as possible and your investment turned out to be as effective as possible, try to follow the tips below.

What batteries are used in the UPS

All UPS products manufactured by APC (and other well-known major UPS manufacturers) use lead acid batteries, much like the most common car batteries. The difference is that, if we are to make such a comparison, the batteries used by APC are made using the same technology as the most expensive car batteries available today: the electrolyte contained inside is in a gel-like state and does not spill if the case is damaged; The battery is sealed, as a result of which it does not require maintenance, does not emit harmful and explosive gases (hydrogen) during operation, it can be “turned over” in any way without fear of spilling the electrolyte.

How long do UPS batteries last?

Although different UPS systems appear to use the same battery technology, the lifespan of UPS batteries from different manufacturers varies widely. This is quite important for users, since replacing batteries is expensive (up to 30% of the original cost of the UPS). Battery failure reduces system efficiency, causing downtime and unnecessary headaches. Temperature has a significant impact on battery reliability. The fact is that the natural processes that cause battery aging largely depend on temperature. Detailed test data provided by battery manufacturers shows that battery life decreases by 10% for every 10°C increase in temperature. This means that the UPS must be designed to minimize battery heating. All UPSs with an online topology and hybrid online sources heat up more than standby or line-interactive ones (which is why the former require a fan). This is the most important reason why UPSs of standby and line-interactive types require battery replacement less often than UPSs with an online topology.

Should you pay attention to the design of the charger when choosing a UPS?

The charger is an important component of the UPS. The conditions under which batteries are recharged have a significant impact on their longevity. The UPS battery life is maximized if it is continuously charged from a constant or floating voltage charger. In fact, the service life of a rechargeable battery significantly exceeds the period of simple storage. This happens because some natural aging processes are halted by constant recharging. Therefore, it is necessary to charge the battery even if the UPS is turned off. In many cases, the UPS is turned off regularly (if the load being protected is turned off, there is no need to keep the UPS on, since it may trip and cause unwanted wear and tear on the battery). Many commercially available UPSs do not provide the important feature of continuous charging.

Does voltage affect reliability?

Batteries are made up of individual cells of approximately 2V each. To create a higher voltage battery individual elements connected in series. A 12-volt battery has six cells, a 24-volt battery has 12 cells, etc. When the battery is on trickle charge, as in UPS systems, the individual cells are recharged simultaneously. Due to the inevitable dispersion of parameters, some elements take a larger share of the charging voltage than others. This causes premature aging of such elements. The reliability of a group of series-connected elements is determined by the reliability of the least reliable element. Therefore, when one of the cells fails, the battery as a whole fails. It has been proven that the rate of aging processes is directly related to the number of elements in the battery; therefore, the rate of aging increases with increasing battery voltage. IN best types The UPS uses a smaller number of higher-power elements instead of a larger number of lower-power elements, thereby achieving increased reliability. Some manufacturers use high-voltage batteries, which, for a given power level, can reduce the number of wiring connections and semiconductors, thereby reducing the cost of the UPS. The battery voltage of most typical UPSs with a power of about 1 kVA is 24...96 V. At this power level, the batteries of APC UPSs, in particular the Smart-UPS family, do not exceed 24 V. Low voltage batteries in UPSs manufactured by APC, have a longer service life compared to competing devices. The average service life of APC batteries is 3-5 years (depending on temperature conditions and frequency of discharge/charge cycles), while some manufacturers indicate a service life of only 1 year. Over the 10-year lifespan of a UPS, some system users spend twice as much on batteries as they do on the unit itself! Although developing a UPS using high-voltage batteries is easier and cheaper for the manufacturer, there is a hidden cost to the user in the form of a shorter UPS life.

Why "pulsating" current reduces battery life

Ideally, to increase usage time, the UPS battery should be kept on a “float” or constant charge. In this situation, a fully charged battery draws a small amount of current from the charger, called float or self-charging current. Despite battery manufacturers' recommendations, some UPS systems additionally expose batteries to ripple current. Ripple currents occur because the inverter producing alternating current for load, consumes direct current at the input. The rectifier, located at the input of the UPS, always produces a pulsating current. The coefficient remains non-zero even when using the most modern circuits straightening and pulsation suppression. Therefore, a battery connected in parallel with the output of the rectifier has to supply some current at those moments in time when the current at the rectifier output decreases, and vice versa - to be recharged when the current at the rectifier output drops. This causes mini-discharge/charge cycles at a frequency typically equal to twice the operating frequency of the UPS (50 or 60 Hz). These cycles wear out the battery, heat it up and cause it to age prematurely.

In a UPS with a battery in reserve, such as a classic backup, a ferroresonant backup, or a line-interactive UPS, the battery is not exposed to ripple currents. The online UPS battery varies to varying degrees (depending on the design features), but is nevertheless always exposed to them. To determine whether ripple currents are occurring, it is necessary to analyze the UPS topology. In an online UPS, the battery is placed between the charger and the inverter, and there will always be pulsating currents. This is the classic, “historically” earliest type of “online double conversion” UPS. If in an on-line UPS the battery is separated from the inverter input by a blocking diode, converter or switch of one type or another, then there should be no pulsating current. Naturally, in these designs the battery is not always connected to the circuit, and therefore UPS with a similar topology are usually classified as hybrid.

What you can't rely on in a UPS

The battery is the least reliable element of most well-designed UPS systems. However, the UPS architecture can affect the longevity of this critical component. If you keep the battery under continuous charging even when the UPS is turned off (as is done in all UPS manufactured by APC), its service life increases. When selecting a UPS, topologies with high battery voltage should be avoided. Beware of UPSs that expose the battery to ripple currents or overheating. Most UPS systems use the same batteries. However, design differences between UPS systems in different systems cause significant differences in battery life and, consequently, in operating costs.

Before turning on your new UPS for the first time, be sure to charge the batteries.

The batteries of the new UPS naturally lost most of their “factory” charge during transportation and storage in the warehouse. Therefore, if you immediately put the UPS under load, the batteries will not be able to provide adequate power support. Moreover, a self-test routine that automatically runs each time the UPS (except Back-UPS) is turned on, among other diagnostic operations, checks whether the battery is able to handle the load. And since an uncharged battery cannot cope with the load, the system may report that the battery is faulty and requires replacement. All you need to do in such a situation is to let the batteries charge. Leave the UPS connected to the network for 24 hours. This is the first time the batteries are charged, so it requires more time than the normal standard charging regulated in technical description. The UPS itself may be turned off. If you brought the UPS in from the cold, allow it to warm up at room temperature for a few hours.

Connect only those loads to the UPS that truly require uninterruptible power.

The use of a UPS is justified only where a loss of power can lead to data loss - in personal computers, servers, hubs, routers, external modems, streamers, disk drives, etc. Printers, scanners, and especially lighting lamps do not require a UPS. What happens if the printer loses power while printing? A sheet of paper gets damaged - its value is not comparable to the cost of a UPS. In addition, a printer connected to an uninterruptible power supply device, when switching to battery power, consumes their energy, taking it away from the computer that really needs it. In order to protect equipment from discharges and interference that does not carry information that could be lost as a result of a power failure, it is sufficient to use a network filter (for example, APC Surge Arrest) or, in case of significant fluctuations in the network voltage, a network stabilizer.

If your source frequently switches to battery mode, check that it is configured correctly. It may happen that the response threshold or sensitivity is set too demanding.

Test the UPS. By periodically running a self-test, you will always be sure that your UPS is fully operational.

Do not unplug the UPS. Turn off the UPS using the button on the front panel, but do not unplug the UPS unless you are leaving it for an extended period of time. Even when turned off, the APC UPS charges the batteries.

ComputerPress 12"1999

After about three to six months of operation, the cost of the data stored on a new work computer begins to exceed the cost of the computer itself. In the case of a network server, this situation can arise within a few weeks after its installation.

In 50 70% of cases, the cause of failures in the operation of electronic devices is poor-quality power supply. If there is a power failure, one incorrect data writing session can destroy the entire file system.

Even if failures do not lead to catastrophic consequences immediately, after some time the sensitive electronics of your PC may simply “revolt” due to constant on/off cycles.

In Russia, data from studies conducted in the USA by Bell Labs and IBM have become known. According to Bell Labs and IBM (USA), each personal computer is exposed to 120 power incidents per month.

Why should you use a UPS?

To answer this question, here's what you need to think about:

What happens if your facility loses power right now?
Have you thought about the harm caused by data corruption or loss?
If it works for you universal network voice and data communications, is all critical equipment protected?
If you have virtualized your servers, have you considered the impact on your UPSs?
How much power do your UPS modules consume? What is their efficiency?
How often do you update and maintain your IT equipment (including servers)? What about your UPS?

UPSs are mainly used to protect IT equipment and other loads from problems that reduce power quality. The UPS performs the following three main functions:

Prevents damage caused by power surges and surges. Many UPS models continuously generate the correct output voltage waveform.
Prevents data loss and damage. Without a UPS, data stored on storage devices subjected to an improper shutdown may be damaged or even lost completely. In combination with the appropriate software, the UPS can perform a graceful shutdown of the system.
Ensures the availability of networks and other applications, preventing downtime. UPSs can also be combined with generators to give the generators sufficient time to start in the event of a power loss.

9 power problems and how a UPS can help you deal with them

Eaton UPS solutions address all nine major power problems. They are designed to meet the requirements of power protection, distribution and management for offices, local networks, data centers, and for telecommunications equipment, medical and industrial markets.

For small office and home (SOHO) applications, Eaton offers budget solutions such as the Ellipse and the Eaton 5110 for conventional desktop systems. For guard critical systems, such as network servers and powerful blade servers, Eaton offers line-interactive and online UPSs such as the Eaton 5125, 9130, Evolution, EX, MX, MX Frame, 9155, 9355, 9390, 9395 and Blade UPS

Source: EATON CORPORATION. UPS Handbook

Typical power supply problems

Complete loss of mains voltage(no voltage in the network for more than 40 seconds due to disruptions in the power supply lines)

Subsidence(short-term decrease in network voltage to a value less than 80% of the nominal value for a time of more than 1 period (1/50 of a second) is a consequence of the inclusion of powerful loads, externally manifested as flickering of lighting lamps) and surges (short-term increases in network voltage by more than 110 % of the nominal for a time of more than 1 period (1/50 of a second); appear when a large load is turned off, externally appear as flickering of lighting lamps) voltages of different durations (typical for large cities)

High frequency noise radio frequency interference of electromagnetic or other origin, the result of the operation of powerful high-frequency devices, communication devices

Frequency deviation beyond acceptable limits

High voltage surges short-term voltage pulses up to 6000V and duration up to 10 ms; appear during thunderstorms, as a result of static electricity, due to sparking switches, have no external manifestations

Frequency overrun a change in frequency of 3 or more Hz from the nominal (50 Hz), appears when the power source is unstable, but may not be externally visible.

All these factors can lead to failure of fairly “thin” electronics and, as often happens, to loss of data. However, people have long learned to protect themselves: line voltage filters that “dampen” surges, diesel generators that supply power to systems during a power outage on a “global scale”, and finally, uninterruptible power supplies the main tool for protecting personal PCs, servers, mini-PBXs and etc.

Types of Power Failures

Type of power failure	Cause of occurrence	Possible consequences
Low voltage, voltage dips	Overloaded network Unstable operation of the network voltage regulation system Connection of consumers whose total power is comparable to the total power of the site electrical network	Power supply overloads electronic devices and reduction of their resource Turning off equipment when the voltage is insufficient for its operation Failure of electric motors Data loss in computers
Overvoltage	Underutilized network Insufficiently efficient operation of the regulatory system Disabling powerful consumers	Equipment failure Emergency shutdown of equipment with loss of data in computers
High voltage pulses	Atmospheric electricity Putting part of the power system into operation after an accident	Failure of equipment sensitive to power quality
Electrical noise	Enabling and disabling powerful consumers Mutual influence of electrical appliances operating nearby	Failures during program execution and data transfer Unstable images on monitor screens and video systems
Complete power cut	Trip fuses during overloads Unprofessional actions of staff Accidents on power lines	Data loss in computers Failure hard drives on very old computers
Harmonic voltage distortion	The network is dominated by non-linear loads equipped with switching power supplies (computers, communications equipment) Poorly designed electrical network handling non-linear loads Neutral wire overload	Interference with sensitive equipment (radio and television systems, measuring instruments, etc.)
Unstable frequency	Severe overload of the energy system as a whole Loss of system control	Overheating of transformers Unstable frequency as an indicator of malfunction of the entire power system or a significant part of it (for computers, a change in frequency in itself is not scary)

ANNOUNCEMENTS

Before you buy a new UPS, you should familiarize yourself with some of the “internal” aspects of its operation. To ensure that your uninterruptible power supply serves you as long as possible and that your investment is as effective as possible, try to follow the tips below.

What batteries are used in the UPS

How long do UPS batteries last?

Should you pay attention to the design of the charger when choosing a UPS?

Does voltage affect reliability?

Batteries are made up of individual cells of approximately 2V each. To create a higher voltage battery, individual cells are connected in series. A 12-volt battery has six cells, a 24-volt battery has 12 cells, etc. When the battery is on trickle charge, as in UPS systems, the individual cells are recharged simultaneously. Due to the inevitable dispersion of parameters, some elements take a larger share of the charging voltage than others. This causes premature aging of such elements. The reliability of a group of series-connected elements is determined by the reliability of the least reliable element. Therefore, when one of the cells fails, the battery as a whole fails. It has been proven that the rate of aging processes is directly related to the number of elements in the battery; therefore, the rate of aging increases with increasing battery voltage. The best types of UPS use fewer higher-power elements instead of more lower-power elements, thereby achieving increased reliability. Some manufacturers use high-voltage batteries, which, for a given power level, can reduce the number of wiring connections and semiconductors, thereby reducing the cost of the UPS. The battery voltage of most typical UPSs with a power of about 1 kVA is 24...96 V. At this power level, the batteries of APC UPSs, in particular the Smart-UPS family, do not exceed 24 V. Low voltage batteries in UPSs manufactured by APC, have a longer service life compared to competing devices. The average service life of APC batteries is 3-5 years (depending on temperature conditions and frequency of discharge/charge cycles), while some manufacturers indicate a service life of only 1 year. Over the 10-year lifespan of a UPS, some system users spend twice as much on batteries as they do on the unit itself! Although developing a UPS using high-voltage batteries is easier and cheaper for the manufacturer, there is a hidden cost to the user in the form of a shorter UPS life.

Why "pulsating" current reduces battery life

Ideally, to increase usage time, the UPS battery should be kept on a “float” or constant charge. In this situation, a fully charged battery draws a small amount of current from the charger, called float or self-charging current. Despite battery manufacturers' recommendations, some UPS systems additionally expose batteries to ripple current. Ripple currents occur because the inverter that produces AC current for the load consumes DC current at its input. The rectifier, located at the input of the UPS, always produces a pulsating current. The coefficient remains non-zero even when using the most modern rectification and ripple suppression circuits. Therefore, a battery connected in parallel with the output of the rectifier has to supply some current at those moments in time when the current at the rectifier output decreases, and vice versa - to be recharged when the current at the rectifier output drops. This causes mini-discharge/charge cycles at a frequency typically equal to twice the operating frequency of the UPS (50 or 60 Hz). These cycles wear out the battery, heat it up and cause it to age prematurely.

What you can't rely on in a UPS

Before turning on your new UPS for the first time, be sure to charge the batteries.

The batteries of the new UPS naturally lost most of their “factory” charge during transportation and storage in the warehouse. Therefore, if you immediately put the UPS under load, the batteries will not be able to provide adequate power support. Moreover, a self-test routine that automatically runs each time the UPS (except Back-UPS) is turned on, among other diagnostic operations, checks whether the battery is able to handle the load. And since an uncharged battery cannot cope with the load, the system may report that the battery is faulty and requires replacement. All you need to do in such a situation is to let the batteries charge. Leave the UPS connected to the network for 24 hours. This is the first time the batteries are charged, so it requires more time than the usual standard charging, regulated in the technical description. The UPS itself may be turned off. If you brought the UPS in from the cold, allow it to warm up at room temperature for a few hours.

Connect only those loads to the UPS that truly require uninterruptible power.

If your source frequently switches to battery mode, check that it is configured correctly. It may happen that the response threshold or sensitivity is set too demanding.

Test the UPS. By periodically running a self-test, you will always be sure that your UPS is fully operational.

ComputerPress 12"1999

To ensure that your uninterruptible power supply (UPS) lasts as long as possible and that its purchase brings tangible benefits, follow the tips below for the care, connection and maintenance of the UPS.

Having decided on the question of which UPS is better and having unpacked your long-awaited purchase, do not rush to connect it right away. Before turning on a new uninterruptible power supply for the first time, you must fully charge the batteries. If the new source is immediately put under load, its batteries will not be able to provide the power required to power it.

Figure 1. APC Back-UPS CS-500 equipment

A self-test routine that runs automatically when turned on (except for Back-UPS models) checks whether the battery pack can handle the load applied. If the battery is not charged, the uninterruptible power supply may report that the battery is faulty and needs to be replaced. In this case, you just need to charge the batteries. To do this, connect the device to the network and leave it turned on for 24 hours.

Charging the batteries for the first time takes slightly longer than normal charging. When charging for the first time, the uninterruptible power supply may be disconnected. Some UPSs, for example, from the manufacturer APC, can be charged from the network, regardless of whether the source is turned on or not.

Only equipment that actually requires uninterruptible power should be connected to the power source.

If the device was brought in from the cold, you need to let it warm up for about two hours at room temperature.

The purchase of an uninterruptible power supply can only be justified if a power outage will lead to the loss of important data. Among the devices that require a UPS: servers, personal computers, routers, hubs, streamers, external modems, etc.

Figure 2. Connection diagram for communication devices

Scanners, printers and lighting equipment should be connected to an uninterruptible power supply at your discretion. If the printer turns off during printing, a piece of paper will simply be damaged, but a printer connected to an uninterruptible power supply, at the moment of switching to power from the battery, completely consumes their energy on itself, and thus deprives the computer of protection, which is in dire need of it. Therefore, connect peripheral equipment to the UPS only if you are sure that the battery energy is enough to power all devices.

Figure 3. Connection diagram of the UPS to the computer

If you want to protect equipment from interference or discharge that does not carry important information, it is enough to use a surge filter, such as Surge Arrest, or a network stabilizer, such as Line-R.

Never overload the uninterruptible power supply. Choose a UPS model whose power is not less than the total load power. Don't forget the difference between volt-amps and watts! Be sure to connect the device with a ground connection, as without it the noise suppression efficiency will be reduced. Turn off the UPS only using the button on the front panel. Unplug the cord only if you have to leave your home or office for an extended period of time. Many sources are capable of charging batteries even when turned off.

Most UPS systems decide on their own when to switch to battery power. However, if your source constantly switches to battery operation, it's worth checking its settings. Perhaps the sensitivity of the device or its response threshold is set too high. Don't forget to test your device periodically. The self-test procedure will allow you to be confident that the UPS is functioning correctly and is ready for use at any time.

UPS selection

First of all, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:

Maximum power, measured in volt-amperes “VA” and watts “W” (the choice depends on the power of the computer and monitor, the larger they are, the larger the UPS numbers should be);
Battery life at full and half load (good performance: 5 and 15 minutes);
Input voltage range (to what extent will the UPS cope without using a battery, preferably 180-250 Volts or wider);
The number and type of sockets for connecting devices (there may be ordinary “Euro-sockets”, or there may be special computer ones).

When buying a UPS, it’s better not to save money, otherwise you’ll have to pay extra regularly (for too-frequent battery replacement or repairs), and who wants that?

When choosing an uninterruptible power supply, you can follow a simple rule: don't buy for less than $90.

There is one thing exception to this rule which I described in comments to this article ().

Starting from $150-200, there are even more reliable models that work on a more advanced principle, but this price is no longer affordable for everyone.

Compatibility of UPS and computer power supply

There is one important thing to know before purchasing a UPS that is not often discussed:

Some computer power supplies do not work correctly with the UPS!
You can check with the seller by informing the model of the power supply.

In one of the subsequent IT lessons (but at a higher level of training) we will look at why this is so and how to avoid this problem. If the question persists, then ask in the comments to this article, I will try to help.

Connecting a surge protector and UPS

The connection is quite simple:

The power cord of the system unit, monitor and other external devices (scanner, printer, etc.) is included in the surge protector or UPS.
The cord plug of the filter itself or the UPS is connected to the home electrical outlet.

If you use a UPS, then it is not necessary to connect a surge protector, except to increase the number of outlets or as an extension cord.

Note: a laser printer cannot be connected to a UPS, since it has too much power; often it has a special socket that is not powered by a battery, but has an interference filter (in the last photo in the article such an socket is painted white).

Summarize

The main idea of this lesson is that a surge protector and an uninterruptible power supply are necessary things and should be used with every computer. If you don’t have these devices yet, be sure to at least buy a surge protector!

So, we’ve sorted out the important additions, now we can move on to the sixth IT lesson. It's on its way, stay tuned! Here is a link to receive site news by email.

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Video supplement

Today, as an addition, there is a video from the Chip and Dip company about uninterruptible power supplies:

P.S. Isn't the information too complicated? I have a request for you: write in the comments to this article what is not clearly described, I will correct it!

Share with your friends:

Communication and exchange of experience (146 comments):

And I will criticize, because... The article is written VERY superficially.
UPS cost from 600 UAH. Normal, inexpensive, reliable ARS. There are no alternatives in terms of durability and reliability, which is actually shown in the photo in your article.
Are you generally silent about protecting telephone lines?

Network filters? For 30 UAH there will be a cheap Chinese Noname extension cord. As you write, “the best protection” will be provided by ARS, Belkin, costing 150-200 UAH. And the ability to turn off the power separately in each outlet, like in Sven Pro? And again, protection of bodies. and lan lines?

And why isn’t a word said about the third type of protection—stabilizers?

The article is intended for housewives who will need a UPS only in order to have time to save the page in Odnoklassniki.

No offense.

I love and welcome criticism (if it is justified, adequate and constructive).

I will answer your comment, Valentin.

1. UPS from 600 UAH
The UPS, which is shown in the photo, has served me for 11 years without replacing the battery and is now no longer available.
There is a UPS that costs $80 (640 UAH) APC BK500-RS almost like mine, it doesn't have phone line protection, but the model mentioned is really good. This model can be considered exception to the rule.
The next most expensive model, BK500EI, costs more than 800 UAH (it has a wider voltage range and connection to a computer via USB and a filter telephone line).
(A link to this note has been added to the article.)

2. About the superficiality of the article.
Most likely, you did not pay attention to the site description and the category of this article.
Let me explain: this site is a guide from beginner to professional, and the complexity of the material increases gradually. This lesson belongs to the “Level 1 Beginner” category, so I deliberately did not complicate the material. When we get to Levels 2 and 3, then we’ll take a closer look at the different components, including those mentioned in this lesson.

3. “As you write, “the best protection” will be provided by ARS, Belkin, costing 150-200 UAH.”
Where did you see that I recommend “Belkin worth 150-200 UAH”? What about the phrase about UPS “don’t buy less than $90”? It’s about surge protectors that I said “the best protection is models from $12”, which includes Sven, Platinum Pro.

4. About the protection of telephone lines, separate switches for sockets, stabilizers, etc.
Not everyone needs telephone line protection anymore, but it is available in the recommended price range. As an electronics engineer, I can explain the effectiveness of this protection “for show” (in this price range).

I have a networked Sven, Platinum Pro, and from my own experience I can say that not everyone needs separate switches, this is far from the main characteristic.

I did not mention stabilizers, since they are used less frequently (again, based on my practice), and determining the need for them, and even more so their choice, is a separate topic.

The main thing that should remain in the mind of a beginner after this article is the importance of the need for at least a surge protector, as well as the idea of purchasing a UPS.

But I have nothing to be offended by, on the contrary, thanks for the criticism!

It’s not entirely clear to me how the network voltage and line filter are filtered. Maybe this surge protector has some kind of circuit other than five sockets for plugs. My computer and other consumers are powered by a voltage regulator. The question is how can you connect a car battery to a voltage stabilizer to protect yourself from unexpected power outages.

Of course, Victor, in addition to sockets, the surge protector contains elements that reduce sudden voltage surges (which last a fraction of a second).

It is not possible to connect a car battery directly to the stabilizer. Additional special circuits are needed: one to convert the battery voltage (+12V) to the computer supply voltage (~220V), the second to monitor the lack of voltage in the network and switch the power to the battery with the converter. This is all in a simplified form.

I don’t think there’s any point in trying to make such circuits yourself, since cheaper, more reliable And safer use uninterruptable power source(UPS).

I bought a UPS Vercom 425. Please explain whether I connected the system unit and monitor to the back panel of the UPS correctly. There are 3 sockets on the left for BATTERY BACKUP, I connected 1 monitor on top, 2 below it - the system unit. Did I do the right thing by connecting the monitor and system unit to the OUTPUT of the UPS with backup power? It's all on the left. On the right there are 2 UPS_OUTPUTS sockets with voltage filtering only. I did not install anything into these sockets and also on the right under them there is an INPUT network connector; I connected this connector with a plug to the surge protector socket. Please write to my email. There was no driver or instructions in the package, I'll go to the store to figure it out.

Hello, Lyudmila.

Since there is no exact description of your UPS model, I can only answer based on the comment, from which I can assume that you have a model IMP-425AP or IMD-425AP. If so, then the monitor and system unit You have connected correctly (in the photo from the official website it says “UPS+Surge”).

The instructions, of course, should be included with the UPS itself. If the store gets stubborn, you can download the instructions from the official website.

Check the model designation on the UPS itself, if you have any questions, please contact us.

Thank you, Seryozha, for your quick response! The full name of my UPS is Line Interactive UPS. Imperial UPS, with display. Improved protection. The store gave instructions and a USB cable. When I connected this cable, it’s good that I have many slots on the back and front panels of the system unit. Battery 1 readings appeared. HID UPS Battery, chemical composition PdAc. Energy reserve - mains power. What confuses me is what is written about the battery: the date of manufacture is December 23, 2009. Isn’t the battery a little old? There was no driver. I downloaded the UPSMON program from the Internet, but it says it is impossible to connect to the UPS. I have a 4-core computer, Athlone 640 3.0 GHz, video card GT 440 1 GB (128), screw 750 GB, RAM 4 GB. BP-400. The computer is sealed for 2 years (warranty). All data from AID. It seems to me that a UPS with 425 VA, 255 watts is rather weak for my computer, although it is written enhanced protection. The computer was mainly used for gaming. I look forward to your advice. Sincerely, Ludmila.

Indeed, for your configuration the power of a 255 W UPS is small.

Here is an approximate calculation of the power of your PC:
Athlone 640 processor - up to 95 W
Video adapter GT 400 - up to 65 W
Motherboard - up to 35 W
Hard drive - about 12 W
DVD - about 10 W
RAM – up to 10 W
USB devices etc. - up to 10 W
Total for the system unit: 237 W
Add 20% to the reserve and get 285 W

Let's not forget about the monitor (what diagonal?) for a 22 inch monitor 30-45 W

Total system unit + monitor - up to 330 W at maximum load!
Actual figures may be lower, but the UPS capacity is desirable not less than 300 Watt.

P.S. I would also pay attention to the computer's power supply. If the manufacturer is too “economical”, then the real maximum power may not be 400 Watts, but somewhere around 200-300 Watts. If the power supply is of high quality, then there should be no problems.

Regarding the date of manufacture, I will give an excerpt from the instructions for the UPS:

6.3 Conditions for long-term storage of the UPS
6.3.1. When the storage temperature is from -15 °C to +30 °C (+5 °F to +86 °F), recharging is necessary battery UPS every 6 months.
6.3.2. When the storage environment temperature is between +30°C and +45°C (+86°F and +113°F), the UPS system battery must be recharged every 3 months.

Those. we can conclude that two years of storage without recharging could well reduce the battery life. It is difficult to say exactly how much it has been reduced.

Monique Acer 19*, I think it is ideal for close distance on a table, large monicas greatly affect the eyes (close distance on a computer table). The upgrade can be done only after 1 year, the warranty is for 2 years. But my computer is very quiet, it runs all the games Black Ops, Crisis, Metro, etc. without problems. WDC WD7500AARS-00Y5B1
Temperature 34 °C

Winbond W83627DHG-P
CPU VCore 1.408 V
AVCC 3.344 V
3VCC 3.344V
3VSB 3.472 V
CPU 40.50 °C
Auxiliary 33.50 °C
System 33.00 °C
System Fan 20149 RPM
CPU Fan 1082 RPM
This is the tempo now. after cs 1.6. If I just change it, then the south bridge of the mother is Asrosk 68, I think that it is rather weak for my computer. Although it is better not to upgrade, but to buy a powerful gaming computer every 3 years. AUH - I think this is the temperature of the power supply.

Vision is more affected not by the diagonal, but by the brightness and the method of adjusting it, which was implemented by the monitor manufacturer (a separate article is planned on this topic for IT lessons).
Also affecting fatigue is the size of interface parts, which depends on the screen resolution for the current diagonal.
But we digress, the question was about the power of the monitor :)

As far as temperatures are concerned, everything is fine, but initially we were talking about the quality of the power supply.
You can compare voltages (especially +12 V) at minimum and maximum load. But it’s better not programmatically, but actually (with a tester), only in your case this is not possible (the system unit is sealed).
If the voltage deviations are large enough, then it is better not to trust such a power supply.

Good afternoon, I’d like to ask a question about the UPS and the interference (running background waves) displayed on the monitor (LCD) due to it, which are noticeable mainly only in the latest games (Crisis 2, The Witcher 2, Sniper Elite, Battlefield 3)
Monitor - Asus 24T1E-H
UPS-EP1500
The outlet is not grounded.

Diagnostics:
1. When connecting the monitor directly to a free socket, no interference was detected. (UPS at a distance of ~ 1 meter from the monitor)
2. When connecting to the surge protector socket in 1 plug, the UPS power cord is inserted into the 2nd power cord of the monitor - Interference is detected.
3. Connecting the monitor power directly to the UPS (connected to an outlet without grounding) - Interference is detected.

P.S.
1. A PC with an Antec HCG 750 power supply is connected to this UPS
2. This interference is noticeable only in powerful 3D games; there is no such interference when watching movies or working in the OS.
3. During all tests, the UPS did not move and is located at a distance of approximately 1 meter. (I didn’t see any point in rearranging, since connecting directly to the network no interference was detected.)
4. I tried to connect the APC P1-RS surge protector to the UPS (which, according to the manufacturer’s specifications, filters out EM interference), and connected the monitor’s power cable to it, but it didn’t help.

Please tell me how you can get rid of interference by connecting a monitor with a system unit to the UPS.
Grounding will not be possible.

Thank you for your attention.
With respect, Chernyshenko Vladimir Anatolyevich.

So, about stabilizers - as far as I understand, they are something intermediate between a surge protector and a UPS, but not all UPSs have stabilizer functions. But in what situations are stabilizers needed in practice? Do they perform the functions of a surge protector or do they exclusively stabilize under/overvoltage?

The situation is this - the air conditioner causes the lights in the apartment to blink and the computer to play games (i.e. under load), sometimes it goes into reboot - will a stabilizer solve this problem or should you definitely spend money on a more expensive UPS?

Alexey, first let’s clarify two questions:
1. Does the light blink periodically for short periods of time (up to 1 second), or does the light remain dim for a longer period of time (more than 5 seconds) and then return to normal?
If periodically and up to 1 second, then the UPS should cope.
2. Did I understand correctly that you already have a UPS and, despite this, the computer reboots during short (?) power surges?
Regarding stabilizers. Their purpose is to bring the voltage level to normal (220 V) and maintain it for a long period of time. If power surges are rare and short, and generally the voltage is normal (about 220 V), then a good UPS is preferable.
- 1. The light blinks for a split second.
  
  2. No, there is no UPS.
  
  In general, I would like to understand what is called reverse continuity between these three devices - filter, stub and UPS. Those. Will the stabilizer perform functions including line filter, and the UPS performs the functions of a line filter and stabilizer? Or, if I want to provide maximum protection, should I buy a surge protector, connect a stabilizer to it, and power the UPS from the stabilizer?
  
  And another question regarding power supplies - as far as I know, various protection, filtering and voltage stabilization systems are already built into expensive power supply models - is this true and if so, how does this correlate with the equipment we are discussing (filter, stub, UPS)? And how to determine the presence of such functionality in the power supply.
  
  Thanks for answers.
  - The power supply unit, UPS and stabilizer must contain a filter, but in cheap models the manufacturer “misses” it or greatly simplifies it.
    Expensive UPSs contain both a filter and a stabilizer. You can recognize them by their markings "Line-interactive" (interactive). For maximum(!) protection, servers use a “double conversion” or “Online” UPS.
    The stabilizer is mainly used to power household equipment (when the voltage deviates greatly from the standard or there are frequent voltage surges in the network). For a PC, a good UPS is preferable, if necessary, then with a built-in stabilizer.
    The input voltage range (and for the power supply too) is indicated in the specifications.
    - It turns out to be more profitable to take some FSP Aurum CM 550W which has a filter, a 90-264V stabilizer and all kinds of protection (OCP, OVP, SCP, OPP, OTP, UVP), rather than spending money on expensive filters, stubs and UPS. Who doesn’t need backup for the work done in the form of a battery, of course.
      
      Apparently, rebooting the computer is not associated with the blinking of the light, at least I have not traced the dependence - I can leave it overnight, and wake up in the morning and find that it has rebooted. Moreover, without blue screens and other errors, it just suddenly goes into overload and that’s it. It doesn't happen often, but it's annoying. Could this be related to the power supply? I have FSP HEXA 500W 80 PLUS.
      - It is difficult to find a good stabilizer with an input range of 90-264V, and at an affordable price.
        I repeat, it is better to take a good PSU (from 40-50 USD) + a good UPS (from 80-90 USD).
        
        As for periodically rebooting the computer, it’s impossible to say offhand. Look at "System Log".
        Maybe a power supply, and RAM, and a SP, and a HDD, and a video adapter...

Hello, please tell me what is the reason. The computer turns off at night, and does not work in the morning, it turns on only when the cord from the system to the power supply is replaced, while the power supply itself is working and another computer is working with the same cord that was replaced and the same power supply

Hello Tatiana.
Judging by the description, it looks like there is poor contact between the cord and the connector in the power supply. It is very rare, but I had a similar case in practice. If everything works well with the second cord, then leave it and the problem is solved, if the problem persists, then try the following option:
It is necessary to check (visually) the contacts on the pins in the power supply connector; if they are oxidized or dark, then carefully clean them. You may have to choose a cord that will work well in a given socket on your power supply.
But these recommendations are relevant, only if you described the problem completely.
1. The phrase is confusing “cord from system to power supply”. May be “cord from the system unit to the UPS”? Where does the cord from the power supply in the system unit connect?
2. Is there a surge protector and/or UPS?
3. In the morning, when the computer does not turn on, have you tried simply unplugging the cord from the outlet, then plugging it back in and pressing the power button?

Good afternoon, Seryozha! I have already asked for your help and am grateful to you for your professional answers. Sorry, I need your advice again: the tray shows the battery icon from the UPS 99% (remaining). Battery name
HID UPS Battery, chemical composition PbAc, energy reserve: mains power, charging. Date of manufacture 12/23/09 Question: the battery can be changed, the UPS has a 2 month lifespan. Sincerely, Ludmila.

Hello, Lyudmila.
Considering that the battery is 2.5 years old (since production), 1% wear is a very good indicator. There is no point in changing the battery for now, keep an eye on its condition in the next 2-4 months. If the condition of the battery deteriorates by more than 5% in 2 months, then you should think about wearing it out too quickly. But now there is no reason to worry.

Good day, Sergey! As always, I hope for your professional answer! The UPS is standing, the monitor and system unit are connected to it, then it is connected to the surge protector, the surge protector is already connected to the outlet. Question: during a thunderstorm, if there is a UPS, do you need to pull out the mains plug from the system unit and remove the plug from the mains filter?

Hello, Lyudmila.
During a thunderstorm, the first thing you need to do is disconnect the cord through which you are connected to the Internet (twisted pair from a network card or router, telephone cable from a modem). After disconnecting, it is advisable to place the cord away from the connector and the device itself (computer, laptop, router, modem).
Why in the first place? Statistics show that most often it breaks down during a thunderstorm. LAN card and/or PC motherboard.

Secondly, it is desirable unplug the device that powers the computer (filter, UPS or power supply cord). Additionally, there is no point in unplugging the cord from the power supply. It is also advisable to place the disconnected plug at a distance from the outlet.

At all, During a thunderstorm, it is advisable to turn it off from the electrical network all devices, especially in a private house.

*After disconnecting, it is advisable to place the cord away from the connector and the device itself (computer*, - I DIDN’T KNOW!

*It is also advisable to place the disconnected plug at a distance from the outlet* -. DONT KNOW!

This means that the UPS will not save the computer during a thunderstorm!

Thank you very much, Seryozha! So I will do as you advised!

Good morning, Seryozha! You are like for me ambulance for my computer. On this battery right click mouse: Power supply properties, there is a tab: power management schemes, now I’ll list:
Home/desktop
Portable
Presentation
Always on
Energy Saving Manager
Battery Saving
In control of the game mode plan
Which scheme is the best, what can you say about BATTERY SAVING?
I installed Home/Desktop.
Sometimes the charge appears at 96%, I click refresh, it returns to 99%.
Sl. tab: power buttons
it says when you press the computer power button it shuts down
When you press the sleep button, it goes into standby mode. This is how it stands for me.
I turned off sleep mode
Alarm tab: Low battery signal, check the box to ENABLE this charge at 30% level
The signal for almost complete battery discharge is checked: ENABLE such a signal at a level of 99%
The tray shows the battery icon from the UPS 99% (remaining), sometimes it shows 66%. Battery name
HID UPS Battery, chemical composition PbAc, energy reserve: mains power, charging. Date of manufacture: 12/23/09. I bought the UPS in May 2012, the UPS itself is from 2011, why do they put old batteries in the UPS?
I trust you, so I really need your advice! Sincerely, Ludmila

Thank you, Seryozha! Everything is clear and understandable! Today the lights turned off, the UPS beeped, there was a message on the monitor, change the battery urgently, the charge was 77%. There was no light for about 5 minutes, the UPS did not turn off, it beeped, and then the light turned on and the battery began to charge to 96 percent. Sometimes 99% appears, but less often, five months have passed. after purchasing the UPS. The UPS itself does not need to be changed, only the batteries, right? What is the cost of these batteries? I only have one. When I buy, how will I determine the year of manufacture of the battery? Sorry again, I have no one else to turn to, I don’t trust sellers, they would like to sell stale goods.

This may be off-topic: in May 2013, the 2-year warranty of my system unit, the case of which is sealed with stickers, expires. Am I doing the right thing?
1. Have it cleaned from dust by a specialist and replace all coolers and radiators with expensive ones.
2. I have a cheap budget motherboard, where the south bridge heats up to 65 degrees in games in the summer, is it suitable for a Gifors GT 560 DDR5 video card (I know that the 256 bus is better than 128) not 1 GB, but 512 MB, but tire 256
3. I won’t add RAM, because I love XP and don’t want to change to another OS, but 4 GB is enough for me (for CS and other computer games)
I have a 440 GB power supply, I think the new video card won’t handle it, I’ll change it to a 650 PB chief.
Your advice: can my mother withstand this upgrade? I like the AMD quad-core 640, it doesn’t heat up. Maybe just change the cooler and radiator on the video card? I need your advice as a specialist. Sincerely, Ludmila.

A 20% discharge in 5 minutes is quite normal, you don’t have to change the battery. When it discharges to 20% in 5 minutes, then you can think about replacing it.
I wonder if the “change battery” message came from the OS or from the UPS manufacturer’s program?
How did the UPS beep? The instructions for something similar to yours indicate the following:

Rare beeps (once every 2 seconds) - battery backup.
Frequent beeps (2 times per second) - Low battery charge.
Continuous beep - Overload.

Of course, the uninterruptible power supply itself does not need to be changed - only the battery.
To find out the cost, you can look here: http://hotline.ua/computer/akkumulyatory-dlya-ibp/ (as I understand, you live in Ukraine).
Presumably you have a battery C.S.B. GP1272 F2 or Yuasa NPW36-12 (maybe NPW45-12), check the exact model when disassembling the UPS (see instructions). The link to the first http://hotline.ua/computer-akkumulyatory-dlya-ibp/csb-battery-gp1272/ indicates a price range of 180 - 235 UAH.

date of manufacture indicated on the battery case:
- For CSB it is a circle with an arrow;
— For Yuasa, these are the numbers near the red terminal, the first two are the year, the third and fourth are the month (09021830 - February 2009).

Hello...Today something happened to the PC and it froze...I had to turn it off directly from the socket (Nothing helped...after that I barely turned it on (and then when all the cords were well connected), but now I can’t turn off the UPS ((lit button and that’s it.. I press it, but it doesn’t turn off.. I unplug it from the socket and it beeps and that’s it... whatever I did... very strange (why did this happen? I’m now afraid that they will turn off the light, and it will beep for 3 hours and I I can't turn it off

It is difficult to judge what happened from your words, there is too little information.

1. When you turned off the computer, did you try pressing the power button for more than 5 seconds (as indicated in Lesson 6)?
2. Does your computer (namely, the computer, not the UPS) turn on and off normally?
3. Leave the UPS turned on for several hours, then repeat the shutdown process (following the instructions from lesson six).

If something doesn't work as it should, please describe it. in detail your actions and results.

Hello, Sergey!
Recently, a technician and I were cleaning up my computer and he issued the following information: “Why are you turning off the power? The battery ((he probably meant the battery??)) is there in the BIOS, it could go bad...”
I power my computer, monitor, speakers (active) through an extension cord with 5 outlets with a switch. I finished the work, everything calmed down, I flipped the switch... and my soul felt so light)))) I can sleep peacefully)))
After shutting down the computer, I inspected the entire computer “equipment”, and I saw: the mouse was powered; monitor in stand-by, diode lights up; the indication on the keyboard lights up; and only the main block is blissfully resting (but I’m not entirely sure about this either).
In general, for now I continue to disconnect the power from the network with a switch on the extension cord. And doubts gnaw))))

Hello, Valery!

Indeed, the system unit does not rest when the computer is not disconnected from the network (by a button on the filter or a UPS button). Inside the system unit there is a standby voltage necessary to monitor the status of some devices (network card, modem). The power supply itself is, of course, also energized, although it consumes a little.

I myself I always turn off the computer completely(switch on the extension filter in front of the UPS). It’s really quieter and nothing blinks :)
In addition, in the event of a problem in the electrical network (lightning, inattentive electrician, etc.), the likelihood of damage to the computer and peripheral devices is minimal.

Regarding the battery powering the BIOS chip: it's not a battery, it's lithium battery type CR2032, its main task is to store settings in a microcircuit, service life is 3-6 years, costs less than 1 USD. Why save on it?

Good day, Sergey. I have this problem. Literally 5 days ago I purchased a new computer (Quadro AMD FX-4100(3?6)/4Gb/1Tb/GeForce GTX5500Ti/1Gb/DVDRW/CR/GLAN/Miditower). and everything was fine until I turned on one of the “heavy, large-scale” bugs (Dragon Age, Aion, etc.). The joy lasted for about 40 minutes, after which the computer suddenly began to reboot and in the process turned off completely and for some more time I didn’t turn it on in any way. And this happens every time I start similar games, the rest of the time the computer is perfect. In the store where I bought the computer, they tested it and assured me that everything was fine with it. I didn’t believe it took their word for it and gave the computer to another computer salon for diagnostics (independent, so to speak), but even there the check did not reveal anything, no errors, failures, overheating, etc. the specialist who dealt with my computer suggested that the problem was in my home power supply. What do you recommend in this case? Is this really the problem? How to solve it? What kind of uninterruptible power supply (as I understand it, if the problem is in electricity, will it be necessary to purchase it?) should be purchased (is it necessary? and will it help? ?), what power, etc? (and, if possible, not particularly expensive) I myself, as you probably already understand, don’t know anything about this... I will be very grateful if you help me with good advice!

Hello Svetlana!
If the computer restarts and turns off only when running games, That I would check for overheating myself.

Perhaps the conditions during the test in the computer store were cooler than at your home. Is the system unit located near the battery, are the ventilation holes covered on the side (for example, by the side vertical surface of a computer desk or pressed against a sofa), etc.?

Run the program PC wizard(IT lesson 12 and 13), go to " Voltage, Temperature and Fans"and look at the temperature immediately after turning it on, and then compare with the processor and video adapter fully loaded. First of all, check the temperature of the video adapter.
If you make sure nothing gets hotter than 60-70 degrees, only then will it be possible to think about the power supply problem.

Check it out, then write me the result, then we’ll look into it in more detail.

Good afternoon,
I have a similar question with the waves on the monitor. Waves appear in the latest toys. But they don’t exist. If the monitor is disconnected from the UPS and plugged into the filter, everything immediately disappears, it seems, why do I need it then? The system is like this: 500W power supply. Video, processor, monitor and everything else in total no more than 300W at maximum loads. The uninterruptible power supply is Powercom BNT-1000AP (600W). I've already changed filters and all that - everything is the same, if the monitor is direct, then there are no waves.
Thanks in advance.

Hello, Alexander!
Vladimir solved a similar problem (which was described above in the comments) as follows:

“Most likely it’s an earthen loop. The ground, in addition to the power wire, also goes along the VGA cable - this creates a loop where there is too much dirt on the VGA cable screen. Under load, power consumption increases, a high current flows through the cable, and more current flows to the ground, which is why interference appears. When I plug it into different sockets, there is no loop, so everything is normal. I don't see any more reasons in this situation.

From all sockets in the surge protector. In our former USSR apartments, as a rule, there is no ground for ordinary outlets. If there was land, there would be no problems.
I took a tee without ground contacts, connected it to the UPS, and connected the cable from the monitor to the tee and the problem disappeared.
Now the PC and Monitor work from the UPS without any problems.”

In addition, pay attention to the type of cable that connects the monitor to the video adapter; if it is a VGA cable, then it is very susceptible to interference and it is better to place it away from the UPS and high-current lines. If possible, it is better to use a DVI cable.

Good evening, Sergey! thank you for your answer! I did everything as you wrote.
The only change I made on my own initiative was to use a different surge protector for the computer itself (+ a different socket), everything else (monitor, speakers, desk lamp etc.) left it in the same place. Result: almost an hour and a half of play without reboots.

power-on data

<<>>
>
>> General information
ISA Address: 0x290
Config Mode: 0x290
Support: M5A78L-M LX3
>> Sensor Information
Sensor: ITE IT8712F
Mode: ISA (SuperIO LPC)
PECI Mode: No

>>Chassis Information

ICH Intrusion detected: No
> VIN1: 2.96 V
> Voltage +3.3V: 2.66 V
> Voltage +5V: 4.57 V
> Voltage +12V: 10.75 V
> +5V VCCH: 0.46 V
> VBAT: 2.21 V
>
>> General information
Support: M5A78L-M LX3
> Processor Voltage:
> Voltage: 1.375 V
> AMD processor FX: Sensor DTS
> Core 1: 255.9 °C
> Core 2: 255.9 °C
> Core 3: 255.9 °C
> Core 4: 255.9 °C
>
>> General information
> Temperature: 29 °C
> Temperature (GPU) : 29 °C
> Fan: 1020 rpm
> Fan: 30%
> Voltage: 0.950 V
>
> HDD ST31000524AS: 22 °C

data obtained during the game

<<>>
> Control chip: ITE IT8712F
>> General information
ISA Address: 0x290
Config Mode: 0x290
Support: M5A78L-M LX3
>> Sensor Information
Sensor: ITE IT8712F
Mode: ISA (SuperIO LPC)
PECI Mode: No
Q-Fan/SmartFan Allowed: No
>>Chassis Information
Sensor Intrusion detected: No
ICH Intrusion detected: No
> VIN1: 2.96 V
> Voltage +3.3V: 2.66 V
> Voltage +5V: 4.57 V
> Voltage +12V: 10.75 V
> +5V VCCH: 0.46 V
> VBAT: 2.21 V
> Control chip: Asus ATK0110
>> General information
Support: M5A78L-M LX3
> Processor Voltage:
> Voltage: 1.288 V
> AMD FX Processor: Sensor DTS
> Core 1: 255.9 °C
> Core 2: 255.9 °C
> Core 3: 255.9 °C
> Core 4: 255.9 °C
> NVIDIA GeForce GTX 550 Ti: nVidia Driver
>> General information
> Temperature: 56 °C
> Temperature (GPU) : 56 °C
> Fan: 1050 rpm
> Fan: 30%
> Voltage: 1.075 V
> Hard Disk Monitoring: S.M.A.R.T
> HDD ST31000524AS: 35 °C

maybe it was worth playing longer to make sure that there would be no reboot, but...
Could changing the socket and surge protector be a solution to the problem?

It is suspicious that the voltage is displayed as 10.75 V instead of +12V.

Go to the BIOS and check the readings in it (you did not indicate the model of the motherboard, so I cannot name the exact section, you can look in the instructions or go to each section in turn).

Sergey, excuse me, it’s me again... nothing foreshadowed trouble... the games were not launched... the computer turned off and during the reboot process the following appeared:
4079 Mb OK (Installed Memory Size:4096 Mb)
USB Device (S)^: 4 Storage Devices
Auto-Detecting SATA 3G_3///IPE Hard Disk
Auto-Detecting SATA 3G_4 ATAPI CD-ROM
SATA 3G_3: ST 31000524AS JC4B Ultra DMA Mode - 6, S.M.A.R.T. Capable and Status on
SATA 3G_4: ATAPI iHAS122 with XL08 Ultra DMA Mode_5
Auto-Detecting USB Mass Storage Devices…
Device#01: Generetic_SD/MMC*HiSpeep*
Device#02: …Compact*HiSpeep*
Device#03: …SM/XP_Picture*HiSpeep*
Device#04: …MS/MS-Pro*HiSpeep*
04 USB mass storage devices found and configured
Power supply surges detected during the previous power on
ASUS Anti-Surge was triggered to protect system from unstable power supply unit
press F1 to run SETUP
Press F2 to load default values and continue

Can you help clarify the situation? Please!)

The phrase “Power supply surges detected during the previous power on” is translated as “Surges in supply voltage were detected during the previous power on.”
By pressing F1 you will go to BIOS settings, and pressing F2 will reset the BIOS settings and boot will continue.

To prevent the message “ASUS Anti-Surge was triggered to protect system from unstable power supply unit” from appearing during boot, you can disable the Anti Surge function in the Power section.

But this will not solve the problem.
1. You need to understand the supply voltages of the power supply (in my previous message I drew attention to the deviation from +12V)
2. Do the lights in your home flicker periodically? Do you know how much the voltage in the network differs from the specified 220 Volts?

Good evening, Sergey! I hasten to inform you how my misadventures with the new computer ended)
I was on a business trip for a little less than a month, upon returning from which I decided by hook or by crook to achieve justice and a solution to my problem. Once again I gave my computer for diagnostics, once again I was told that it was in perfect condition. and at that very moment, when one of the employees wanted to turn off my computer (and all this time it was working, they tested it repeatedly) and touched the place on the back panel where the power supply is located, this same employee received an electric shock (mildly, of course) and the computer began to reboot again , how did this happen at home. In general, the problem was, as you expected, in the power supply, something with the grounding)!
thank you very much for the advice))) and happy new year to you)

IN computer technology It is common to encounter such intermittent problems.
I’m glad for you, Svetlana, that such an accident helped solve the problem on the spot :)

Sergey, greetings! Your opinion is interesting. The problem is the following: the system unit is powered from a surge protector. The voltage from the socket is 217-220 v. When you turn on the computer while loading Windows (that moment when the blue squares are running), for some reason these squares stop and the loading stops. It helps to disconnect the pilot from the power supply and then everything loads normally. What’s the problem???
and the second question: if the UPS has only one output, is it appropriate to use a surge protector at its output as a breeder?

Hello, Pavel!
Does your computer freeze every time you turn it on? Or maybe only after recovery from hibernation/standby mode?
Did I understand correctly that the “Reset” button does not help, only turning off the power helps?

Regarding the UPS, I would use a regular extension cord with several outlets (to avoid the possible influence of the filter circuits on the UPS output circuits). And if we are talking about choosing a UPS, then it is better to immediately buy a model with several outputs in order to avoid unnecessary adapters and extension cords (they potentially reduce electrical and fire safety).
- Yes, freezing occurs every time you turn it on. To avoid them, you have to turn off the network filter for a few seconds, after turning on the computer boots normally. Here’s such a primitive (
  - It is difficult to clearly determine what the problem is. It is necessary to conduct a detailed diagnosis.
    The first step would be to reset the BIOS settings to make sure they are not the cause. Then try turning off the computer (via the Start menu, not the power button), leaving the filter powered on, waiting 30 seconds (so that the HDD pancakes stop spinning), turning on the PC, and see if it boots without freezing. Remember the result.
    The second step, I would check the actual voltage values produced by the power supply (via the BIOS or using the PC Wizard program. It is advisable to check the voltages under different loads (CPU and video adapter). Deviations from standard voltages should be minimal.
    As a third step, I would repeat the situation on a clean version of the OS of the same version (you will have to reinstall Windows or install it on second hard disk, if available). This step can be problematic, but it will significantly narrow your search.
    After these steps, it will be possible to draw the first conclusions.

Good evening, Seryozha! I decided not to wait until the warranty on the system unit, sealed for 2 years, expired and let the specialists clean it from dust and replace all the coolers with new ones. And immediately change, as you advised, the video card to Gifors 560ti DDR5 256-bit bus. And at the same time I change the power supply to a more powerful one because of the video card. But I have this question: my UPS is now running the computer, without power for 8 minutes. But will it hold up when I install this powerful video card and a 750 power supply unit, if it is 425 VA, i.e. 255 watts. I don’t want to change the UPS, it’s already expensive, 680 UAH or 2518 rubles. What do you advise? Sincerely, Ludmila.

Hello, Lyudmila.
Three months have passed since my analysis of upgrading your computer. The situation on the video adapter market has changed noticeably. The GeForce 5xx has been replaced by the 6xx series - more economical and less noisy. I advise you to pay attention to it. (If you have questions, it’s better in that topic).

Regarding the UPS:
We have already calculated the theoretical power consumption of your PC: with a new video card (if there is a 560 Ti) it will be about 340 Watts (maximum), and a monitor is also connected to the UPS.
You can take a chance, hoping that during a power outage (or long-term deviations from the normal voltage in the network), the computer will not consume the maximum possible power, but half... then the UPS, of course, will withstand it. It may be able to withstand short-term loads at higher power.
But I would not recommend using a UPS with a power of less than 400-450 Watts in this case.
I think it won’t be so difficult to sell your used uninterruptible power supply, and thus save on buying a new one.
- Good day, Seryozha! Thank you very much for the advice, I’ll think about what would be more profitable to do. We don’t have stores for used components, we’ll have to look for buyers for the UPS. Without replacing the UPS with a more powerful one, I don’t want to risk the new video card and power supply. If I don’t find a buyer, then it’s better in 1 year 4 months. sell the system unit along with the UPS and buy a new powerful modern gaming PC. I’ll definitely pay attention to the sixth series video card. Sincerely, Lyudmila

Hello, Sergey. I have a question. Can the system unit break down due to the fact that it has a UPS? The computer began to reboot many times and eventually stopped working. They said it was because of this.

Hello Tamara.
If there is incompatibility between the UPS and the computer’s power supply (this is mentioned in the lesson and comments), then during power surges the computer will actually reboot. And such frequent reboots can lead to PC failure.
The same can happen if the UPS is faulty.
Have you been told what exactly failed inside the system unit?

Sergey, good evening, can you tell me? I took a Powercom BNT 800AP usb UPS, connected the system unit to one socket, and the LG LED E2242C monitor to the other through a surge protector for the UPS, the system unit works, but the monitor does not. What could be the reason?

Yuri, try swapping the cords (use the one to which the system unit is connected for the monitor).
There are also defects; there have even been cases where the length of the contacts in the connector is incorrect, and as a result the device does not work.

Hello. So far everything is clear. Thank you very much for the lesson. Please pay attention to this text. Here one word was repeated twice. (What would be more literate like mine :)

——— In one of the subsequent IT lessons (but at a higher level of training) we will look at why this is so and how to avoid this problem. If the question persists, then ask in the comments to this article, I will try to help. ———

word —— *lessons*

about the UPS - good stuff. But I have a laptop

Hello Dear Sergey There is such a problem
The neighbors started a major renovation with welding (Heating, gratings, an enclosure for the dog, and something else, plus a concrete mixer and other powerful tools and all this in the private sector) we are sitting on the same line with them; we can’t jump over to the second because there even worse “APPEARS THEY ARE BUILDING AN IRON BUNKER THERE”
and so from 17-00 to 22-00 I have a disco and at times the light just fades out for 5-10 seconds until the “Illich Bulb” mode, I measured the voltage during the decay for 10 seconds, it showed on the “Chinese tester” 170 - at times up to 116 volts and As a result, the computer turns off even though the TV is standing nearby No changes (apparently there is a different junction on the transformer)
There was an option to use Soviet stabilizers (for TV), but now the voltage has become even lower and it can’t cope
Today I freaked out and went to talk to my neighbors and remembered that My Neighbor (Another) sold her Computer and she still had the UPS, but it was there even before the sale of the computer for about a year
Its model is bnt 400a (manufacturer not specified) it is 210 watt maximum Connecting it did not give anything
I'm an electrician myself, but I've never encountered a UPS before.
An autopsy showed that the fuse on the Charging circuit was burned out (replaced) but the battery was dead because the measurements showed 3-5 volts. An attempt to charge it with a small current from the Car Battery Charger did not give anything after I pulled it out and saw a significant swelling and crack but leaks (Gel) didn’t notice But I still started it with the help of Yulok Power (Laboratory), but it (the Block) buzzed when starting, but after switching the circuit to “NETWORK” it stopped
There is an idea to connect a 60 ampere battery from a Car to it (they say it will help), but the charging current is confusing; it is 0-75 amperes. Will the battery plates be destroyed?
Or is it possible to use the UPS as a Stabilizer? ( This function available) and light the UPS from the Laboratory PSU???
Replacing the Battery immediately disappears because there is no money at all for the Scholarship and there is nothing to eat...
Bolshaya Porosba reply to E-mail because I’m writing from someone else’s computer (I have a disco with swings)

Stanislav, I sympathize with you. I encountered a similar situation when I lived in a private house and was saved by switching on the autotransformer and the UPS in series.

Experience with connection car battery I don't have a UPS. Of course, the first thing you need to check is the consistency of the charging currents and the presence of the required voltage. On forums it is often advised to separate the charging and converter circuits because They come to the conclusion that the battery will not have time to charge and will fail as a result.

There are references to working systems “UPS + Car Battery” (example: http://forum.oszone.net/post-1323278-26.html), but before experimenting with connecting a car battery to a UPS, you should take into account the differences in the features of their use: http://www.1000va.ru/actual/?actual_id=10
- Do not be shy. File a complaint (by phone first) with the Electricity Networks Department and state your complaints. They should come and sort it out. In the end, as a consumer, you pay money for electricity, which must meet GOST requirements. For connecting the welding transformer to the lighting network in the evening and on weekends, they must insert a homemade wick.

Good evening, Seryozha! My Imperial line-interactive UPS began to hum, if the plug from it is in the socket, but it itself is turned off, a hum is heard. Battery charge 96 percent.

Lyudmila, in fact, a humming sound from a UPS that is plugged in but turned off with a button is relatively common. Sometimes this humming is very faintly audible, sometimes stronger.

If the sound in your case appears “suddenly” and is loud enough, then take it to service center, let them figure out what the problem is.

Good day, there was no time or opportunity to contact you Sergey. At first I also didn’t have a grounding connection and had problems with the computer and the UPS, everything was resolved! Now it works. There were modem failures due to overvoltage, but when, on the advice of one computer technician, I connected the modem via a UPS, a different picture emerged, although I had to make a mini socket for connection on the UPS itself (it’s a pity that all the connectors are not intended for the modem’s power supply).

Please tell me why the UPS (700 VA IPPON) gives short signals and turns off??? Connected through a surge protector. P.S. The house has an electric boiler.

Olga, there may be several reasons.
1. It is possible that the network voltage has been outside the permissible range for too long (too low or too high);
2. Maybe the battery has reached the end of its service life and it’s time to replace it;
3. The problem may also be in the load (what is connected to the UPS);
4. There is a possibility that the UPS itself has failed.
And these are not all the options.

There is not enough information to suggest more precisely, start by checking the first and third points.

The wiring in your house does not match the power of the electric boiler. It is necessary to immediately replace the wiring in the house using copper wires in accordance with the maximum power consumption (with a margin) and soldering joints made by twisting. You should also check the quality of the wiring from the meter to the power supply line (on the pole). Don't take risks.

I read the articles with pleasure, I can’t ask any questions, I just re-read the article and the answers to questions from other users if something is not clear. Thank you.

Hello, Sergey. When I'm not working with the computer, I turn off the uninterruptible power supply. I first turn on the uninterruptible power supply (APC Back-UPS 700), then the electrical appliances connected to it. Sometimes the appliance turns on normally. There are times when, when you turn on the device, the uninterruptible power supply starts to beep, and the lights on the connected devices blink dimly. Sometimes the squeaking and flashing continues for a couple of seconds, then the devices work normally. Sometimes an electrical crackle can be heard in devices when the power supply unit beeps. Simply On/Off helps in all situations. Then everything works fine. The described problems appear only during the initial startup of the uninterruptible power supply. What happens? Does the UPS need time to compensate for the lack of power during initial startup? AND main question: Is an uninterruptible power supply capable of harming electrical appliances? All this flashing lights and electrical crackling bothers me.

I'm concerned about some of the "surge protectors" that many people have. They are more like simple extension cords. Having disassembled such a “surge filter”, you will not find anything in it that can protect equipment. The maximum that can be on such a sample is a thermal breaker and a switch. But there is no interference filtering unit at all. I've had good luck with my APC. For almost six years, it has served me as reliability. But I decided to buy a new one. Sergey, which one would you recommend to me? 🙂

Victor, with filters it’s really not that simple, and most of them are extension cords.
Even cost does not always indicate the quality of performance, for example:
The APC PF8VNT3-RS is one of the most expensive, but there have been complaints about the build quality in recent years.
APC PH6T3-IT also has controversial solutions, which are described in this review.
Energy Elite Most EHV (but not ER) seems to be a good scheme, but there are also complaints.
Good feedback about Defender DFS 805 and Defender DFS-PRO5, but I haven’t found a full review and testing.
Inexpensive filters with minimum acceptable filtration parameters: SVEN Platinum PRO/SVEN Platinum/SVEN Gold (there are complaints about the build quality).

In short, I don’t know the ideal filter, I buy not the cheapest one with filtration circuits, disassemble it and look at the build quality, if necessary, I fix it or leave it as an extension cord.

I consider a UPS to be a mandatory protection for a computer.
- Thank you! 🙂 I chose Defender. 😀 And I already have a UPS. APC CS-500. Only it is not in working order. Publishes sound signals and hisses. At the same time, the “on battery” indicator flashes. Even if you disconnect the battery. There is no response to the Power button yet.

Hello Sergei! I wanted to describe my “uninterruptible power supply”. I have had it since 2010. After 3 years I changed the battery. Model: Back-UPS ES 525. I like it! Although it was a little expensive at the time, it pays for itself. 3 sockets and one. 3 are anti-interference and a battery, and one is only anti-interference. And this one socket always works even when I’m turned off. uninterruptible power supply with a button (I connected a landline telephone answering machine to this socket). There is even a wire connection to the COMPUTER. If there is any interference in the network, it beeps (and if the light is off, it beeps more often) I open the program and see what was in networks and when. And it also has landline phone protection. In short, it’s a cool uninterruptible power supply - I like it! THANK YOU!!!

Hello, Sergey. Will there be problems if 5-6 electrical appliances (20″ monitor, non-gaming system unit, speakers, table lamp, 40″ TV) are connected to one UPS output via a surge protector (with a plug for connecting to the UPS)?

Hello, Alexander. The main rule is not to exceed the maximum power for which the UPS is designed (or better yet, leave a margin of 20-30%). Add up the maximum power consumption of each device (usually indicated on the back on a special sticker), and compare with the maximum permissible power of the uninterruptible power supply.

Hello, Sergey! I also ask for advice.
I have a laptop on my desk, it’s been a Dell since 2008, now it’s an ASUS N56V. I treasure it. In 2008 I bought a Pover Cube PRO filter, it worked great - I always turn on the laptop in the morning and until the night, I turn it off only when I leave.
Recently his toggle switch got damaged, I tried to insert it myself -
hisses when turned on. I decided to replace it, I found Pilot GL in Eldorado,
It is 2 times more expensive than the Moscow one, it seemed normal to me. The store asked me to believe it and paid. At home I was afraid to turn it on, but everything was fine, I worked in the same conditions for a week, and yesterday when I turned it on there was a loud bang, like an explosion, fire and
smoke and turned off the machines for the whole apartment. I was afraid to turn them on - unexpectedly the filter gave me a short circuit and I had to wait for the electrician.
Today I discovered that in other stores this model is more than 2 times more expensive. I don’t know what to think. I read your article and decided to buy a UPS. I have a Defender RJ45/RJ11 on my TV, it has 2 free sockets, but I don’t want to load it. By the way, I don’t understand, does it need to change its batteries? It didn’t bother me, although the filters saved me, they turned off my light - the neighbors were doing European-quality renovations with redevelopment, the noise was incredible, I endured it, behind the wall, and others came and turned off all the machines in the panel, including mine. So my surge protectors saved my home, TV and laptop. What would YOU
did you advise? UPS without any filters? And which? So far I have a laptop directly, it was purchased, and a month later the model was discontinued, so I don’t know if it has overload protection, etc.

Hello, Allah!
The filter that suited short circuit- Be sure to return it under warranty.
The batteries in the UPS have to be changed over time, but the service life depends on the quality of the battery and the UPS, see the website.
The UPS can be used without a filter, but the filter in front of it will not cause any harm.
Regarding recommendations: I have good experience with APC UPS, but recently there have been more complaints, you need to choose a model based on reviews/reviews (do not chase a low price). Good reviews about APC Back-UPS CS 500VA, pay attention to the warranty, it should be 1-2 years.