Attachment for measuring charging capacity. Automatic device for discharging and measuring the actual capacity of batteries. Attachment for measuring the capacity of a car battery.

If you are going to buy batteries, but you do not yet have a charger, or you want to buy a charger to replace the old one, then the question inevitably arises - which charger to buy, what to choose from the huge variety?

Why do you need a quality charger?

The service life of high-quality NiMH batteries with proper care is on average 3-5 years. The capacity of modern batteries is comparable to the capacity of expensive alkaline (Alkaline) disposable batteries, but unlike them, batteries can be used from 500 to 3000 times. The benefits of buying batteries are obvious!

In order for batteries to last a long time and work efficiently, it is necessary to choose the right charger. A common mistake many buyers make is buying expensive high-quality batteries and buying a cheap charger or using an old one they bought a long time ago. As a result, even the most expensive batteries will quickly fail.

There are at least 3 reasons why you shouldn't skimp on a charger:

1. Cheap chargers can charge batteries extremely slowly - up to several days;

2. Also, cheap chargers can charge batteries very quickly, but at the same time they may not have proper protection against overheating and overcharging of batteries, which significantly reduces their service life.

3. Cheap chargers do not allow you to control the charging process and may not have automatic shutdown after the battery has finished charging.

You have to calculate the charging time “by eye”, this is not convenient and not accurate - the batteries can either be undercharged or overcharged;

Problems can be prevented or solved with a quality charger. Manufacturers offer a variety of chargers aimed at a wide range of consumers: from advanced users who want complete control of the battery charging process and parameters, to ordinary buyers who do not want to know anything about the battery charging process.

What should you consider when choosing a charger?

When choosing a charger, pay attention to the following important points:

1. Availability of independent channels for charging each battery separately

Many cheap chargers only charge batteries in pairs. This creates a number of inconveniences in use. Firstly, you need to make sure that the pairs of batteries used in devices are not confused. Secondly, many devices use an odd number of batteries that cannot be charged in such a charger. We have to look for some extra battery

, to complement the pair for charging, which is very inconvenient.

In addition, over time, the batteries in a pair begin to differ in capacity, which affects the duration and quality of operation of the pair. The difference in capacity can reach such an extent that, due to one undercharged battery, the pair practically stops working and it becomes impossible to use the batteries.

for AA/AAA+CROWN

for Li-ION+AA/AAA: XTAR MC2

XTAR MC2S

4. TrastFire TR-001

Availability of the “discharge” function The "discharge" function is very useful feature

, which allows you to extend the life of batteries and maintain high performance. The fact is that batteries are considered discharged when the voltage on them is 0.9 Volts, while many electronic devices turn off when the voltage on the battery drops only to 1.1 Volts or higher. When charging a battery that is not completely discharged, the “memory effect” appears over time, which consists of a loss of battery capacity and a decrease in its operating time.

Therefore, to discharge batteries, it is recommended to use chargers with the “Discharge” function.

When using batteries in toys or flashlights, do not allow the batteries to become deeply discharged. If you see that the battery is already low (the flashlight is dim, the motor in the toy is spinning weakly, or the sound is distorted), replace the batteries.

5. Availability of additional functions and features

Currently, the most popular are smart chargers that allow you to independently set battery charge and discharge currents, accelerate battery capacity, measure and restore battery capacity.

Buying such a charger makes sense if you constantly use batteries and you need to be confident in the capacity and performance of the batteries, or if you just like to experiment and explore. Also, such a charger is an excellent gift for anyone who uses batteries.

Smart chargers:

Separately, it is worth noting the smart chargers of the device, which are equipped with various additional accessories: AA and AAA batteries, travel bags, adapters. The quality of complete batteries and accessories is usually quite high, and the cost of batteries included is usually lower than the cost of similar batteries separately. Therefore, purchasing chargers with accessory kits can be very profitable.

Smart chargers with accessory kits:

Among the smart chargers, advanced chargers can be distinguished. These chargers are distinguished by the presence of additional functions and capabilities: screen backlight, measurement of internal battery resistance, a wide range of charge and discharge current settings, manual installation number of charge/discharge cycles for training/acceleration.

Advanced chargers:

6. Ability to work with batteries of different formats and sizes

If you use batteries different types(Ni-MH, Li-ion) and different sizes, so as not to buy a separate charger for each type of battery, you can purchase a universal charger that is suitable for charging several types of batteries. Universal chargers are no worse than separate chargers for each type of battery. In terms of functionality, they can also be simple, which simply charge batteries, or advanced, which can charge, discharge, test and train batteries, and measure their capacity. Universal chargers combine the ability to work with Ni-MH batteries of sizes AA, AAA, C and Li-Ion batteries of sizes 18650, 14500, 16340, 26650, 20700, 21700, etc.

Universal chargers:

7. Ability to work with a large number of batteries

There are situations when it is necessary to charge many batteries at once - 6 -12 or more. It is quite obvious that using the most common chargers for 4 batteries in this case is inconvenient; the charging process takes a lot of time and requires additional attention. Using multiple chargers can also be an inconvenient solution to the problem.JBC-017

8. Super-fast chargers.

More and more Li-ION batteries with high load capacity are appearing on sale for electronic cigarettes, power tools, and powerful flashlights. In most cases, such batteries can be charged quickly without affecting their service life. For these purposes, special chargers are produced that allow the use of maximum charge currents for Li-ION batteries:MiBoxer C2-4000

(the paragraph below is intended only for Ni-MH batteries, modern Li-ION batteries can be charged fast devices with currents up to 4 amperes.)
Currently, you can find many chargers on the market that are called super-fast, ultra-fast, etc. This means that they are able to charge batteries quickly. What does this mean in practice? This means that chargers use high currents to charge batteries - 1000 mah per channel and above. Without temperature control of the batteries and cooling system, high charging currents cause the batteries to overheat, which has an extremely negative impact on their life expectancy. A high-quality super-fast charger should have good system cooling, thermal sensors for monitoring battery temperature, overheating protection system. Otherwise, the lifespan of the batteries may be reduced by several times that stated by the manufacturer.

Special fast chargers with temperature and battery charge level control:

As a summary, we can say that to charge high-quality batteries, it is advisable to purchase a high-quality charger that will ensure a long battery life and high performance. Choose the optimal charger, which in its functionality will allow you to work with your batteries at the level you need. Before purchasing, it is also advisable to think about whether you will need additional functions

in the future, even if you are not going to use them now.

Thank you online store http://batterex.com.ua/

for the materials provided Batteries are used in many aspects of daily human life: vehicles, power tools, systems uninterruptible power supply

, smartphones, laptops and more.

General information about battery capacity The main purpose of checking the condition of any type of battery is to determine the battery capacity and determine other characteristics. However existing means

measurements can only accurately determine the strength of the electric current and voltage in the battery, as well as measure the density of the electrolyte substance.

Capacity is measured indirectly using a method specific to each type of battery or using a device for measuring battery capacity, which gives only an approximate result. Important!

The accuracy of any battery measurements may be affected by external factors, such as air temperature.

The only reliable way to determine the capacity of a battery is to completely discharge it for many hours, accompanied by constant recording of many parameters. But not every person is ready to undergo such a lengthy procedure, because short-term measurements may be sufficient to establish approximate data on the battery capacity.

  • Methods for determining the capacity of a car battery:
  • traditional method – control discharge (a long and procedurally intensive process);
  • measuring the density and level of electrolyte fluid in a car battery;
  • by applying the load fork to the battery;

capacity tester. The capacity of popular lithium-ion, nickel-cadmium and nickel-metal hydride batteries can be measured using the same test discharge (the battery can fail if all the rules are not followed) or by purchasing special USB testers on Chinese trading platforms, the accuracy and correctness of measurements of which are highly question.

Check digit

Long-term control discharge is a traditional laboratory method for determining battery capacity. The essence of the method is that a fully charged battery is discharged by exposure to constant electric currents, the strength of which depends on the parameters of the product.

Meanwhile, discharge measurements are taken hourly battery and voltage, which are fixed. The battery capacity is calculated by the formula: the product of the electric current and the elapsed specific time. Such a measurement can take up to a day of constant monitoring of the battery, which is not very convenient for many ordinary people.

Load fork

Load fork - a device for testing the battery using a controlled load, equipped with a voltmeter, a load resistor and two probes. There are such devices various types: with analog or digital voltmeter, simple circuit with one load element or sophisticated devices with several load spirals and an ammeter; there are also load forks for testing voltage in individual battery banks.

The essence of the measurements is simple and is described in the instructions for the device. The voltage data obtained must be compared with the table below.

Voltage correspondence table with battery capacity

Electrolyte density measurement

You can measure the capacity of the battery components (cans) using a device called a hydrometer. The essence of the method is that the density of the electrolyte contained in each battery bank is directly related to its capacitive characteristics.

To measure, you need to open all the lids of the car battery cans and take the electrolyte from each container one by one, recording the density data from the device. Next, the density of this substance is compared with the table of density and capacity.

Table of correspondence between electrolyte density and capacity

Measurements using special instruments

The idea of ​​a load fork was used and improved in Pendant electronic portable devices, which were created specifically for carrying out testing activities on different spectra of lead-acid batteries.

With such devices you can quickly measure voltage, determine the approximate capacity of the battery without resorting to a test discharge, and also save the resulting measurements in the device’s memory.

Features of devices of the “Pendant” family:

  • are powered by the battery from which measurements are taken;
  • The devices are supplied with wires with crocodile pliers, which ensures high-quality clamping of wires on all battery terminals;
  • a special method for determining battery capacity, which has no analogues;
  • To increase the accuracy of measurements, it is recommended to independently calibrate the product using a new battery of the same type (the procedure is described by the manufacturer in the operating instructions).

Capacity is measured indirectly using a method specific to each type of battery or using a device for measuring battery capacity, which gives only an approximate result. This capacity tester should only be used to establish the capacity of a battery that is fully charged.

There are also other devices from other manufacturers for the same purposes, the methodology for determining the battery capacity of which differs from each other. For example, SKAT-T-AUTO devices, PITE testers, Fluke analyzers, Vencon devices. All these devices can indirectly or directly measure various parameters.

Knowing the condition of your battery, namely its capacity, you can avoid unpleasant situations on the roads. Also, by reacting in time to the discrepancy between the measured indicators and those declared by the manufacturer, you can resuscitate or extend the life of the battery by carrying out various measures.

Video

This time - an intelligent charger for Ni-Mh batteries of AAA and AA sizes.
Why intellectual?

Unlike conventional chargers, which are sold cheaply by the Chinese or are included in kits such as “10 cheap batteries and a cheap charger for 2000 rubles”, and are charged using the “drip” method, this charger has a controller in which programs are embedded fast charging batteries, and some other features - like determining capacity and “training” batteries to restore capacity.

About terminology

Ni-Cd, nickel-cadmium battery. A battery in which the cathode is Ni(OH) 2, the anode is Cd(OH) 2, and the electrolyte is KOH. They are distinguished by a large number of charge-discharge cycles and the ability to be stored in a discharged state.
Ni-MH, Nickel-metal hydride battery. The cathode is nickel oxide (NiO), the anode is Lanthanum-Nickel-Cobalt alloy, the electrolyte is the same as in Ni-Cd.

99% of batteries sold in stores are AA or AAA form factors - Ni-MH. This is due to qualities that are more attractive to consumers - less noticeable memory effect, large capacity. True, along with these characteristics, the kit also comes with fast self-discharge (when, after some time, unused batteries have to be charged again).

LSD Ni-MH- Ni-MH with low self-discharge. Despite the intriguing abbreviation in the name, it is just an abbreviation for Low Self-Discharge :) Despite this, they have several more advantages - higher discharge currents, the ability to work at low temperatures, and an increased number of operating cycles.

More terms for those who have not read the article about charging lithium batteries.


About smart and stupid charge

You can charge nickel batteries different ways. By the way, it should be taken into account that charging intended for Ni-MH can also charge Ni-Cd, but not vice versa. If you manage to find a charger in the bins specifically designed for nickel-cadmium batteries, you should not try to charge Ni-MH with it - it may end badly. But I probably haven’t seen such chargers for 5 years.
So, about charging methods. Simplest - drip, or low current.
In this mode, the battery is charged with a fixed current of 1/10C, ​​or 0.1C. As we remember from terminology, C is the numerical value of the battery capacity, which means, even theoretically, charging should last at least 10 hours. In practice, no one has 100% efficiency, which means the charging time increases to at least 15 hours. In reality, this time will be even longer, since the chargers are “dumb” and can only control the current. Accordingly, it is impossible to know in advance which battery will be charged - 600mAh or 2700mAh. For the first, the required current will be 60mA, and for the second - 270mA.
The processes occurring during charging are such that the battery, after reaching full capacity, can digest just a current of 0.1C without consequences in the form of explosions and fire - simply turning it into heat, which is carried away by air currents without consequences. And if this current is exceeded, the battery will begin to heat up too much and may well burst.
Do you understand what I'm getting at? You cannot charge a 600mAh battery with a current of 270mA, but a 2700mAh battery with a current of 60mA is fine. Subsequently, all charges of this type limit the charge current to 60-100mA. And if for a 600mAh battery the full charge time is the recommended 15 hours, then for a more capacious 2700mAh battery you will need at least about a day and a half. In general, everything is clear, and only those who use batteries in TV remotes can use such a charger.

Medium current charging with temperature control.
In this mode, the battery is charged with currents from 1/3C to 1/2C, which allows charging in an acceptable time - from 5 hours. When charging with such currents, the battery begins to heat up after the end of the charge, which can lead to its explosion. Therefore, in such chargers there is a temperature sensor next to the battery, which monitors a sharp increase in temperature and stops the charge. If charging is even a little “smarter”, it first discharges the battery to get rid of the memory effect, and then starts charging it. Some models also count the time from the start of charging, which allows you to indirectly judge the health of the battery - if charging ends in a much shorter time (an hour or an hour and a half), then the battery is faulty, which is indicated by charging.

High current charging with -ΔV and temperature control
The fastest charging technology. The battery charges at high currents (1C to 2C), allowing the battery to be charged in an hour or two.


The basic principle of this technology is that before the end of the charge the voltage always increases, and immediately after a full charge it decreases. Not by much, by tens or even a few millivolts. The controller in the charger constantly monitors the voltage on the battery and, after a voltage jump down, reduces the charging current to approximately 10mA - to compensate for self-discharge - so that the batteries are always ready, even if they are left charging for a day.
There is a danger of not noticing this point, and seriously overheating the battery at such currents, so all chargers additionally have built-in temperature protection - thermal sensors for each battery, which temporarily turn off the charging process if the battery gets very hot.

As a rule, manufacturers do not limit themselves only to this mode - if you build in a controller, then you can add several more functions to it - current control, to determine the actual battery capacity, a training function - when the battery is charged and discharged several times to compensate for the memory effect, and others functions.

About the charging itself

Thick cardboard box:


With inscriptions in three languages:


Inside the box you can find a power supply, the charger itself, and a manual. All components have their own packaging, and the charger even has its own little bumps on the bag.


The power supply is 3 volts and as much as 4 amperes.


Manual and charger itself:


On back side chargers - description, model, icons. The rest of the space is covered with rows of ventilation holes.


On the back side there is a power supply connector:


There is nothing interesting from the sides:


All controls are concentrated on the front panel, there are also slots for batteries:


Control is carried out by three buttons - Mode, Display, Current. The first is responsible for selecting modes, the second is for displaying parameters on the screen, and the third sets the charge current.

Internals:

As usual, let's be curious about what's inside. Unscrew 4 screws around the perimeter:


Then remove the back cover:


The board appears, also attached with 4 screws:


But you won’t be able to remove the board just by unscrewing the screws. You also need to unsolder the temperature sensor wires at 4 points marked with arrows.


And here they are:


It should be noted that they are not just pressed together, but are tightly glued (or rather even glued) into the metal plates with heat-conducting sealant. There are two sensors - each is responsible for two batteries.
It is against these plates that the batteries are pressed - for better control temperature.


White is just a heat sealant. Here's the fee:


The top side is not very interesting - just polygons, contacts, a connector, three buttons and a screen. Which can be easily removed from the board:


But the reverse side is much more interesting, there is a microcontroller (blue) that controls all charging functions:


Just below are ballast resistors (red) for testing and recovery modes (the batteries are discharged on them), yellow ones are shunts, precision resistors on which the voltage drop is measured to control the current during charging and discharging, blue is an operational amplifier for temperature sensors.

Fast start:

After switching on without batteries, the inscription null lights up on all 4 displays.

If you insert a charged battery, the word Full will light up. If not fully charged, it will show the current voltage, and the default mode is Charge.

If you do not press any buttons, then after 4 seconds it will show the current - by default 200mA, and after another 4 seconds it will blink and go into charging mode. Thus, you can simply put the batteries in there and leave - the charging mode will turn on automatically.

When working with the Display button, you can cyclically switch current-voltage-charge-time modes from the beginning of the process


If you press Current within 5 seconds, you can select the charge or discharge current - 200-500-700-1000mA. If the charger has 1 or 2 batteries installed in the first or last compartments, it becomes possible to select a current of 1500 or 1800mA.

After selection, you do not need to do anything - 10 seconds after pressing the last button, the mode with the selected current will turn on.

Using the Mode button you can select the operating mode - Charge, Discharge, Test, Refresh. To select, you need to hold the button for 2 seconds, after which you can select the mode with single presses. The first mode is Charge. It is installed by default and simply charges the batteries to full capacity. The second is Discharge, discharges and then charges the battery. The third one charges the battery if it was not charged, then discharges it, measuring the capacity in the process, then charges it again. Recovery - the fourth mode, cyclically discharges and charges the batteries until the capacity stops changing.


As I understand it, the point of use is this - if you need to charge the batteries quickly, then you just need to insert them and select the charge current. And if time is of the essence - for example, if the batteries are useful only in the morning, then it is better to select the discharge or test mode - the batteries will be discharged, and then automatically fully charged. Thus, both the wolves are fed and the sheep are safe - the batteries will be charged without your intervention, and the discharge-charge scenario will eliminate the memory effect.
The testing mode takes longer because to determine the capacity, you must first fully charge the batteries. But after its completion, you will receive information about the battery capacity, and if something happens, you will be able to replace a suddenly dead battery in time (this is better than finding out about it during operation).

I talked about the main functions, everything else is in the manual:

Testing the recovery function:

Very “luckily”, at a sale in a computer store, I came across a new package of GP2700 batteries for 200 rubles. Having bought it and inserted it into the charger, I realized that it was not for nothing that they were so cheap:


“If you weren’t chasing cheapness, priest...” Instead of the indicated 2700mAh batteries, the batteries showed completely different numbers - two were about 1000mAh, and the other two were only 100mAh. Maybe they were stored incorrectly, maybe they died from self-discharge. I had nothing to lose, sale items were not accepted back, and without much hope I turned on the Refresh mode, put the charger on the shelf and forgot about it.
Three days later, when I needed to charge a set of batteries from the flash, I took the charger from the shelf and saw completely different numbers:


Like this. The battery that showed a result of 984mAh turned into 2150mAh, 117mAh into 2040mAh, 116mAh into 2200mAh, and 1093mAh into 2390mAh.
Of course, the capacity is not indicated by the manufacturer, but I cannot guarantee that the measured capacity of completely new batteries will be equal to the declared capacity - everyone lies.
The main thing is that the recovery function works perfectly. I’ll go visit some photographers I know and pick up a bunch of “dead” batteries from them. Surely some of them will turn out to be quite working :)

Price:

In the la-crosse.ru store this charger costs 1300 rubles.

Conclusion:

Convenient, well-assembled device for charging batteries. I think the price of the device will quickly be paid off by the convenience of operation and several reconditioning of batteries, instead of buying new ones.

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16-11-2008

Gulyaev Sergey Nikolaevich
kvant19 [a] rambler.ru

The use of microcontrollers in electrical engineering can significantly simplify the design, giving the device functions that are very difficult or even impossible to implement on individual logic elements. An example is the following design.

This device is connected as a set-top box to a charger, a variety of schemes of which have already been described on the Internet. It displays on the liquid crystal display the input voltage value, the amount of battery charging current, charging time and charging current capacity (which can be either in Amp-hours or milliamp-hours - depends only on the controller firmware and the shunt used). The output voltage of the charger should not be less than 7 volts, otherwise this set-top box will require a separate power source. The device is based on a PIC16F676 microcontroller and a 2-line liquid crystal indicator SC 1602 ASLB-XH-HS-G. Maximum charging capacity is 5500 mA/h and 95.0 A/h, respectively.

Schematic diagram is shown in Figure 1.

Connection to the charger - see Fig. 2.

When turned on, the microcontroller first requests the required charging capacity. Set by button SB1. Reset - button SB2.

If the button is not pressed for more than 5 seconds, the controller automatically switches to measurement mode. Pin 2 (RA5) is set high.

The algorithm for calculating the capacity in this set-top box is as follows:

Once a second, the microcontroller measures the voltage at the input of the set-top box and the current, and if the current value is greater than the least significant digit, it increases the seconds counter by 1. Thus, the clock only shows the charging time.

Next, the microcontroller calculates the average current per minute. To do this, the charging current readings are divided by 60. The whole number is recorded in the meter, and the remainder of the division is then added to the next measured current value, and only then this sum is divided by 60. Having thus made 60 measurements in the meter, the number of the average current value will be in a minute.

Next, the average current value is in turn divided by 60 (using the same algorithm). Thus, the capacitance counter increases once per minute by one sixtieth of the average current per minute.

After this, the average current counter is reset to zero and counting starts over. Each time, after calculating the charging capacity, a comparison is made between the measured capacity and the specified one, and if they are equal, the message “Charging complete” is displayed on the display, and in the second line - the value of this charging capacity and voltage. A low level appears at pin 2 of the microcontroller (RA5), which leads to the LED extinguishing. This signal can be used to turn on a relay, which, for example, disconnects the charger from the network (see Fig. 3).

Setting up the device comes down to setting the correct readings of the charging current (R1 R3) and input voltage (R2) using a reference ammeter and voltmeter. To accurately set the set-top box readings, it is recommended to use multi-turn trimmer resistors or install additional resistors in series with the trimmers (select experimentally).

Now about shunts.

For a charger with a current of up to 1000 mA, you can use a 15 V power supply, a 5-10 Ohm resistor with a power of 5 W as a shunt, and in series with the battery being charged a variable resistance of 20-100 Ohms, which will set the charging current.

For a charging current of up to 10 A (max 25.5 A), you will need to make a shunt from high-resistance wire of a suitable cross-section with a resistance of 0.1 Ohm. Tests have shown that even with a signal from the current shunt equal to 0.1 volts, the tuning resistors R1 and R3 can easily set the current reading to 10 A. However, the larger the signal from the current sensor, the easier it is to set the correct readings.

As a shunt for a 10 A set-top box, I tried to use a piece of aluminum wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm and a length of 30 cm - it works great.

Printed circuit board For of this device due to the simplicity of the circuit, it was not developed; it is assembled on a breadboard of the same dimensions as the liquid crystal indicator and is fixed at the back. The microcontroller is installed on the socket and allows you to quickly change the firmware to switch to a different charger current.

  • solving a problem always starts from the very beginning simple option- take what is ready. and this is what you can buy - ready-made. and then more and more complex, up to the point of development and manufacturing from scratch. this is the most difficult option
  • What’s worse is that he is the most dangerous. You'll have to test it on your own head...
  • Perhaps this is true. Only what is written on the battery sometimes coincides suspiciously closely with the readings, but sometimes not at all. Based on this, we can safely say that the device is useful. I don’t know what your statement is based on. And you will find out that the readings taken in this (very slow) way differ from those that you get with that device right away. And probably to a greater extent - that is, for example, the battery says 2600, but if you charge/discharge it several times (and this is equivalent to the refresh function), we will get 2800 or more. And as a result, the difference is minuscule, a lot of time was wasted, we learned the “ideal” capacity. If we are talking about a car battery, then it will not be charged in a car. Accordingly, this device shows, rather, the indirectly accumulated charge, rather than the capacity. But for practice this is enough. Some devices for this purpose also measure the internal resistance of the battery. If there are many batteries of the same type, sorting will be quite possible. Yes, this is terrible. And an even larger part of the country uses an unlicensed OS and does not want to pay taxes so that the next Zakharchenko will steal them. I somehow managed all my life without a state register. And most citizens using measuring instruments in electronics, TsSM without need. Your state register and verifications are needed much like a motorist needs a technical inspection. But that’s just my point. There was a smell of officialdom here. What I agree with is the opinion of kovigor. Safety first.
  • The topic smoothly flows into a discussion of security)))). Dear kovigor, from somewhere he got the idea that those who want to measure the accumulated capacity of a battery with this device must use shitty batteries and incomprehensible charging. And it begins: safety, and you know that life... I know, I know. I propose to stop this flood and write to the topic. I ask those in the know to make changes to the firmware to raise the controlled charge-discharge voltage to 45 volts.
  • no one in the know knows what you've done? what did you build on? and what firmware are you using at the moment?
  • Well, to each his own, once you use pseudo instruments, the readings during measurements will be so vague, but in general, I try to double-check even proven instruments with reference ones, even though you are a guru, most likely the instruments you use are a cheap segment of equipment that cannot be verified from -due to large measurement errors, and in general for large projects at large enterprises related to electronic equipment, all devices are subject to verification, not to feed someone, but to carry out accurate measurements.
  • absolutely in the hole. As a verifier, I can tell the verifier. that all measuring equipment, absolutely everything, is divided into two large classes: 1. measuring equipment, of any accuracy class 2. display meters, the first, depending on the accuracy class, can be either standards, or standards, or meters with a clearly defined accuracy class.
  • the second ones show that the measured value is present. also with varying accuracy, and within an hour this accuracy can exceed the accuracy of instruments from the first group. From this point the question arises - what is the difference then. the difference is that devices from the first group are listed in the state register of measuring instruments. and all official data of legal value can only be provided on the basis of measurements by these instruments. and devices from the second group do not have such capabilities or legal justification.
  • Along the way, you use shitty devices and live in your imaginary world, which has long gone ahead with cheap devices. And for most devices that consume 220, it makes no difference - 220 or 223 in the outlet. It looks like you are more of a theorist. There is a source in ASMA. There is no need to reverse anything. You just need to change a few things. To do this, you need to be a practical microchip user.
  • At the request of inosat, I am posting updated firmware with increased control voltage, up to 50V. Don't forget to recalculate the voltmeter's input divider using my R4 circuit. Firmware for microcontroller 16F684. There is a mode selection menu.
  • Well, the promised firmware for 676, with one charge mode and doubled control voltage.
  • One of my favorite MK! There is a USB capacity counter. Measure the current 10 times per second, and calculate the capacity accordingly. Well, if for a car, then on atmega8, all modes - charge - discharge, training, capacity calculation with constant charge (discharge), asymmetric charge, in any mode. The device does not regulate the current, but only controls the mosfet keys according to the voltage specified from the keyboard.
  • And all the checking of instruments is necessary only for the military service, so that they can shoot down Pindos in the air and at sea! And for everything else, they are parasites who want to prove their “need”... But in fact, they are not needed, just like 90 percent of the authorities. Something like this!
  • ... now the adjustment devices are stored in memory, there are no adjustment resistors floating away from their nominal value and there is nothing to adjust there. And the idiot from TsSM, who wanted to make money from me, couldn’t even turn on my SONY\TEKTRONIX oscillator (which in 1998 was definitely not in the state register - it didn’t work any worse for that). Well done Ivan_79. I abandoned the microchip a long time ago - after MPLAB compiled a non-existent command for the crystal. And at that time, the peak was significantly inferior to Atmel (although which he later bought - Gyyy).
  • Thank you! But in Proteus with firmware for 16F684, the relay does not turn off when the set voltage for charging is reached. For discharge it is turned off, but for charging it is not)). Firmware for PIC16F676 - all good. For anyone interested, I’m posting the board layout for the PIC16F676 with a charging function (in my case, for 42 volts, so I slightly altered the circuit). I haven’t done it in hardware yet, I can’t vouch for its correctness.
  • You can forget about THIS console once and for all.... I collected it a long time ago, there is not a single sensible firmware, and it cannot exist because of the selected peak... For me, it no longer exists... especially since there is MUCH more best alternative if you decide to assemble it yourself, here it is: https://www..html?di=66280 see the full article, everything is there... I think that many will agree with me..
  • By the way, the latest project is a voltmeter alternating current networks. On PIC16F684 and one register 595 4-segment indicator. without transformer. And the accuracy is 0.5 - 1 volt!
  • Relays are not very suitable for chargers with high currents. Because there is an unpleasant incident with contacts sticking (even if the currents are less than those stated in the relay passport). Therefore, for reliable operation, we had to come up with a field key scheme. The diagram is attached. It is for currents of no more than 3 amperes; for larger ones, install more powerful keys.
  • One of these days I'll check and fix the shutdown when charging. Everything seemed to work in Proteus.
  • Ivan? Maybe it's not the proteus? Maybe the relay is really sticking? Look at the diagram above! And my problems went away with the implementation of it! And everything began to work like clockwork! True, the controller is on atmega8, but this is no longer important.

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Somehow recently it became necessary to measure the capacity of one battery in a smartphone, since it began to discharge too quickly, and, of course, I wanted to order another little thing on AliExpress. As a result, after spending a couple of minutes searching, we found it on AliExpress, for sure, but Aliexpress had another promotion and the price turned out to be more profitable. If you decide to buy, check it yourself, maybe the situation will change at that time, but don’t forget that, so don’t be lazy and calculate for yourself where it will be more profitable for you to make a purchase. But let's not deviate from the topic and return to the actual review of the device itself.

Overview of a device for measuring battery capacity

Fortunately, we were able to find a device for measuring battery capacity from, which has already sold more than two thousand of these testers and has only positive customer reviews of the product. If you search for yourself, then for your reference here is the original name of this tester “”, perhaps at the time of your purchase more profitable proposition. At the time of ordering, the price of the tester for measuring battery capacity was $4.26, as we were on some kind of promotion, the regular price was $7.10, but we managed to buy it even cheaper, thanks to the cashback service on Aliexpress. Ultimately, we paid $3.90, delivery was indicated, the order was placed, all we had to do was wait.

As a result, after about 20 days, the parcel arrived. By the way, the track code was without letters, just digital and was tracked only until the moment of export from China, after which all that was left was to wait, fortunately the parcel arrived quickly, but small items usually always arrive faster than large parcels, so nothing surprising. The seller packed the device for measuring battery capacity in a standard yellow international envelope, having previously wrapped it in several layers of bubble wrap, for which special thanks to him. Inside the envelope, everything turned out to be exactly as indicated in the description of the product. On the back of our device for measuring battery capacity there is information about the permissible input and output voltage and the maximum capacity level of the indicator. This information is mainly for lovers of experiments who love playing with sockets, but since we bought it for simple household needs, like measuring the battery capacity in a smartphone, tablet, camera, we simply accepted this information for your information and decided to check the performance of the tester.

First of all, we connected the tester to, using a USB cable, which is built into the case on one side, and inserted it on the other USB cable from the phone. Immediately all the necessary information, about voltage, current strength, and a counter indicating the amount of charge transferred, which is measured by mAh ( milliamp hours). Actually, the device for measuring battery capacity already performs its main function and copes with it quite well. But if you look closely, you will notice a small button next to the display. It is needed for comparative measurements, in other words, this memory of 10 cells in which the indicators of your measurements are saved. Works this function according to the following principle - with short presses of the button you can scroll through the readings of saved measurements, you can activate the viewing of cells with one double press, and reset with one long press. As for us, the function itself is not particularly necessary, but perhaps it will be useful to someone.

We tested a device for measuring battery capacity on both smartphones, tablets, and (Original Xiaomi Power Bank 16000mAh), which was recently ordered from. Of the declared 16000mAh, in an almost new external charger we were able to count 15874, which is very good. We also connected it to, the results were also pleasing, after 3 months of use, the battery capacity decreased by only 2%, however, the original Xiaomi products has not caused any complaints for a long time.

If you want to accurately measure the volume of your battery, we recommend connecting the battery capacity measuring device to a completely discharged device, and only then charging it.

Of course, you can’t expect extremely accurate readings from a device for a couple of dollars, but it’s a necessary thing in everyday life, especially for all sorts of geeks who love to do all sorts of experiments. Definitely, the functions of this tester are more than enough to measure the battery capacity of your smartphones and tablets.

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