Omnidirectional antenna for distributing wifi with your own hands. DIY Wi-Fi antenna - step-by-step instructions. How to test changes

Wireless technologies Wi-Fi is present everywhere today. This radio standard provides for signal transmission at a frequency of 2.4 GHz. For practical purposes, it is used to switch the interactive connection between the access point and the subscriber’s device. Quality transmitted signal directly depends on the built-in or external repeater. You can expand the capabilities of your router if you know how to make a Wi-Fi antenna with your own hands. Next, we will consider several methods and step-by-step instructions for them.

Amplifier from CD packaging

It is quite simple to make it from available materials, subject to the main rule: the distance from the copper elements to the reflective surface of the disk should be strictly 15 millimeters.

The procedure consists of several stages:

  1. Take a regular plastic package for 25 discs.
  2. The fixing protrusion must be cut at a distance of 16-18 mm.
  3. Using a file, slotted sockets are made on a plastic spindle to fix the double diamond.
  4. Biquadrat (rhombus) is made of copper wire with a diameter of 2.5 millimeters.
  5. You need to be careful at this stage because it is the most important. Take 300 mm of copper cable, protect the surface, and bend the wire into a rhombus. The distance between centers is strictly maintained within 30 mm. If the entire procedure is carried out correctly, the result will be a double geometric figure.
  6. Then the ends of the wire are sealed, and a place for fastening is prepared coaxial cable.

Antenna for Wi-Fi router: assembly and testing

At the next stage, you will need to attach the resulting biquadrat to the spindle, maintaining a vertical distance of 16 mm at all points. Using a soldering iron, the ends of the wire are fixed. Using silicone glue, attach a standard CD to the bottom of the box. Using the same adhesive, the double diamond is fixed to the spindle.

Then the Wi-Fi antenna is connected to the router (router) with your own hands. The photo below shows a diagram of how to do this. Experienced craftsmen can unsolder the standard antenna and attach a new amplifier, however, you need to be very careful here, since thin conductors can peel off from the board when exposed to high temperatures. An easier way is to install a new device using the The result obtained, despite the simplicity of the process, will pleasantly please you.

Tin can amplifier

This DIY Wi-Fi antenna is no more difficult to make than the previous version. The device will strengthen the signal, which is weakened by partitions and furniture in the apartment. The design in question is simple and inexpensive.

To manufacture the device you will need the following elements:

  • wardrobe trempel;
  • a couple of liter cans of beer or soft drinks;
  • regular soldering iron and solder;
  • wire (50 Ohm);
  • connecting connector.

The trempel can be replaced with a metal-plastic tube, which is used both indoors and outdoors, since it is little exposed to atmospheric influences.

Step-by-step instruction

In the future, the antenna amplifier is manufactured following the following steps:

  1. Holes are made in the bottom of the cans, after which they are put on the lower part of the trempel or pipe.
  2. The slots in the cans are made in such a way as to avoid excessive tension or slipping of the part. The pipe is looped and equipped with a suitable clamp.
  3. A similar antenna for a Wi-Fi router, located on a trempel, requires stripping the soldering area, after which the ends of the wire are soldered to the cans one at a time. The other end of the cable is fixed to the connector used to connect to the access point.
  4. If a metal-plastic pipe is used as a base, both cans are soldered to the main wire. You can install an adapter between them and fix the feeder on one of the cans. The antenna screen will be a metal foil located in the cavity of the tube. In order to solder the braid to the foil, you need to carefully make a cut and remove the protective film. The mounting location should be secured and insulated.

from sheet metal

To make this structure, you will need a tin sheet measuring 222 by 490 millimeters. It must be bent into the shape of a trough. Then eight holes are made with a core around the perimeter at the same distance. At the edges they should be 8*2 mm in diameter, and in the middle 8*8 mm. These sockets will serve as places for vibrators. The easiest way to make these elements is from tinned food-grade sheet metal, and then solder them into prepared sockets.

An amplifier for a tin antenna requires maximum precision while maintaining dimensions. Don't forget to also make holes for the posts. Their diameter depends on the thickness and characteristics of the material used as a holder. On the vibrator side, it is advisable to fill the connecting joints with varnish or wax to prevent moisture from entering. Any connector can be used for connection (BNC, N, F). The last element is the easiest to insulate. A homemade Wi-Fi antenna is connected to the router with the second end of the wire to the corresponding connector.

During installation, it is advisable to achieve direct visibility of the transmitting and receiving amplifier. Please note that deciduous trees jam the signal. The connecting cable should be as short as possible. If this cannot be done, you should not use PCI cards.

As a rule, it will be enough to use a regular white cable with dense insulation (RG-6U), since more expensive options have the same effect. If the air is very polluted and the WI-FI zone is saturated, it is permissible to change the polarization of the amplifier if the connection is made between two identical points. Several ways have been discussed above on how to make a Wi-Fi antenna with your own hands? Consumer reviews indicate that such a device has almost the same effect as a factory device, while its cost is an order of magnitude lower.

Outside the home, the signal strength is always low. In a cafe or business center, routers are not installed in every room. And the power of receivers on modern laptops and smartphones is quite low.

Antenna for reception WiFi signal you can do it yourself

You can pay attention to popular solutions - expensive external antennas. Someone uses a 3G modem with a router function, but the Internet speed is thus reduced and the cost increases significantly. We will tell you how to make an antenna for Wi-Fi from available means.

The financial cost of a Wi-Fi antenna should not be more than $35. You will need:

  1. USB receiver for Wi-Fi networks dongle form factor. You can find one in large electronics stores or radio markets.
  2. Any kitchen utensils of a hemispherical shape (made of metal). A colander or sieve will do.
  3. Passive extender USB type A. If finances allow, then an active one is still better - it will allow you to place the antenna higher. We can connect 2-3 cables when there is no extension cord of the required size.
  4. Consumables: hot glue, tape, piece of garden hose (required). Foil, rope (optional).

How to choose the right parts?

For our purposes, a Wi-Fi receiver must meet several parameters:


We will need to make the antenna directional. It means that USB cable must be of sufficient length. Calculate it in advance. The cable should not be longer than 5 meters, otherwise signal distortion may occur.

Cookware

The best cookware for these purposes is a pot with a semicircular mesh bottom. Asian dishes, a steamer, a sieve or a lamp cover will do. The hemispherical shape and metal body are the main requirements. If you are planning to make a large antenna, an old television antenna will do just fine. Please note possible problems with installation.

Assembling and connecting the receiver

Connect the Wi-Fi adapter and part of the extension cord to the antenna. To do this, it is better to use hot melt glue or double-sided tape. The adapter should be installed in the center of the antenna, a few centimeters above its surface (ideally). It is important to direct the receiving center of the antenna exactly to the point of signal transmission, since it is highly directional.

Connect the desired end of the USB extension cable to the computer. Install the receiver in the same way as a standard Wi-Fi adapter.

IMPORTANT. It is better to immediately adjust the signal level.

This can be done using programs, for example:

  • NetStumbler, Free Wi-Fi Scanner, NetSpot (for Windows);
  • NetSpot (for OS X);
  • LinSSID, iwScanner (Linux).

We looked at making the most primitive antenna for receiving a Wi-Fi signal. Further more!

Antenna "Bikvadrat"

Another name for Wi-Fi signal receivers of this type is “Kharchenko’s zigzag”. A biquad antenna is relatively easy to make. It refers to the optimal options in terms of the ratio of complexity, production time and result obtained.

Components

For a biquad antenna we will need:

  • copper tube or N-connector;
  • one-sided textolite;
  • copper wiring (diameter 1.5–3 mm);
  • cable RG-6U (coaxial).

These components can be found at your local radio market or radio supply store.

Procedure

Helix antenna

Another interesting type of antenna can be used as a signal receiver for the router. This is a spiral design that was invented back in 1947. According to some reports, it is capable of receiving a signal from a distance of about 650 meters.

Components

  • A plate made of copper or aluminum - for the reflector. It shouldn't be too thin.
  • Copper wiring about 150 cm long and at least 1 mm in diameter.
  • Fastenings.
  • Round vinyl core.
  • Copper foil that will need to be wrapped around the core.
  • Wi-Fi network card connector.

Manufacturing process

Fine. What's next?

We hope you understand that you need to make two antennas? One is in a place with an active signal and a router, the other is in a place where the signal is received. Point to Point software will help secure your connection from those who like “free neighborhood Wi-Fi.”

ADVICE.

  • To reduce signal attenuation, use a minimum cable length.
  • It is better to place the Wi-Fi modem as close to the antenna as possible.

conclusions

You can use any of the types of Wi-Fi antenna listed here: simple, biquad or helical - depending on your specific needs and purposes. We recommend practicing the first option - this way you will develop your skills. However, for a person with technical experience, manufacturing more complex products is not a problem.

Did you like the material? Share it with your comrades and friends on in social networks! We will be glad if we helped you solve your connection problem.

The Wi-Fi wireless information transmission system (the abbreviation does not stand for it, it was invented as a marketing ploy) is one of the pillars of modern high-tech society. With its help, not only the Internet is distributed, but also, for example, signals from video cameras. In its physical essence, it is radio communication at a frequency of 2.4 GHz and obeys all the laws of radio wave propagation.

Therefore, if your tablet or laptop refuses to communicate with the router due to interfering walls and ceilings, you can try making a signal amplifier yourself. This is a directional antenna in the centimeter range. Its design can be pin, frame, spiral or zigzag. In this article we will try, without delving into the jungle of the theory of antenna-feeder devices, to explain to you how to make an antenna from scrap materials that will be no worse than those sold in the store.

Before you start choosing the type of antenna and putting your grandiose plans into practice, you should familiarize yourself with the fundamental laws of the theory of antenna-feeder devices. There are two of them:

  1. Wavelength, which determines the size of the device.
  2. Gain. Most interesting point, which makes it possible to detect a weak radio signal over long distances - this is exactly what we are taking on this task for.

The magnetic field strength diagram of any radio signal has the shape of a sinusoid. The distance between the first and third points where it intersects the x-axis is called the wavelength.

The frequency rating is the number of oscillations per second. Since a radio signal travels at the speed of light, the wavelength in meters will be equal to the result of its division by the frequency. For low frequency (most common) Wi-Fi range: 299792458 / 2.4 = 12.5 cm.

Remember this value, since all dimensions of the future antenna will be calculated as its fractional parts.

Gain is a conditional value that shows how many times the output signal at the terminals of a directional antenna is greater than that of an omnidirectional antenna. Moreover, this ratio is calculated as a decimal logarithm and is denoted dB - decibel. Omnidirectional is one for which the position relative to the radio signal source is indifferent. These are used in mobile phones and tablets, since this is, firstly, assumed by the terms of use, and, secondly, determined by the small size of the devices.

The directional properties of an antenna appear if its length is equal to half the wavelength. For Wi-Fi it is 6.25 cm. Its spatial radiation pattern is a torus - a donut, perpendicular to the antenna axis. The gain in this case is equal to two decibels, that is, 1.58 times. Such half-wave dipoles allow you to increase the range by ten meters, which is already good for reliable signal reception in your apartment.

The easiest way to boost a signal

If you take a ruler and measure the length of the whip antenna home router, then it turns out that its length is from 10 to 12 cm. They don’t make it longer because in a pin whose size is larger than the wavelength, the internal resistance increases significantly and the signal goes out instead of being amplified. This increase in size leads to a narrowing of the thickness of the donut pattern and a slight increase in the power density of the emitted signal. Shielding the transmitting antenna on one side has a much greater effect.

The screen allows you to concentrate the radiation of the router in the direction you need. For example, if it is located against a wall, then there is no reason to transmit the Wi-Fi signal to neighbors or to the street. Its installation increases the gain of the transmitting antenna to 3 dB, that is, twice. Which actually reflects the physical essence of the matter, because you reoriented half of the uselessly directed signal in the right direction.

The trick is how far from the router antenna to place the screen. According to the laws of radio signal propagation, it should be equal to 1/8 of the wavelength. For Wi-Fi it is 1.56 cm.

It can be a sheet of iron (cut beer or tin can), a compact disc or thick foil. It is best to make the design in the form of a stand for the router, with the screen placed perpendicular to it. You can achieve the result experimentally by moving the signal source closer or further from the screen by millimeter. The network level display interface will help you.

The advantage of this method is its simplicity, and also the fact that you do not need an antenna for the tablet. That is, you don’t have to open it or find ways to connect additional equipment. The disadvantage is the short range of signal reception.

Directional Antennas

A powerful antenna - with a gain of 10 dB - is needed if the expected reception range is at least 50 meters. In this case, highly directional antennas are used. For example, zigzag or spiral.

Zigzag

It is called both the Kharchenko antenna, after the radio amateur who proposed such a design in 1961, and the biquad antenna, for its characteristic shape. It is constructed from a conductor two waves long of the intended signal. For Wi-Fi, this value is 25 cm. It bends in the form of two squares with a side of ¼ wavelength - 3.125 cm. The point of their articulation is detachable. Usually it is attached to a dielectric plate to ensure rigidity so that there is no overlap between the soldering points of the central core of the coaxial cable to one branch and the screen to another.

The biquad antenna has a gain of 8 dB in the basic version, and about 12 dB if a screen is installed, which can be a CD, foil, or sheet of metal. The distance to it from the plane of the conductor bent into two squares is 1.56 meters - an eighth of the wavelength. The design is convenient in that the extreme points of the squares along the axis have zero potential, so they can be attached to the screen with anything, including metal wire, providing good rigidity.

To ensure the required gain, it is placed vertically. In the horizontal direction, its directional properties are no better than those of a half-wave dipole. The receiving axis is located perpendicular to the plane of the figured conductor.

Coordination with the cable is not required; it connects directly to the conductor.

The spiral antenna was invented in the late 40s of the last century by the American radio engineer J. Kraus. Very simple in design, it provides signal amplification up to 20 dB (100 times) and is used in all bands, starting from VHF. Reception range up to 2 km within line of sight. It consists of several turns of a conductor twisted into a spiral.

The diameter of the spiral turn is equal to the wavelength. Therefore, when creating the frame of a homemade antenna of this type, a piece of sewer plastic pipe with a diameter of 40 mm is ideal. They are in every hardware store.

The spiral is sparse. The distance between turns is ¼ wavelength. The longer it is, the sharper the radiation pattern and the higher the gain. For a distance of three kilometers, it is enough that the total length is equal to three wavelengths - 36 cm.

The conductor used is a household single-core copper wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 - diameter 1.5 mm. The insulating shell cannot be removed. It is evenly glued to the base pipe.

The screen is made of any sheet material; its position does not depend on the wavelength multiplicity.

The antenna requires coordination with the power cable. For this, a piece of copper sheet in the form of a right triangle with legs 71 and 17 mm long is used. It is glued to the pipe so that the slope of the hypotenuse follows the slope of the coil. The central core of the cable is soldered to the angle opposite the straight line (at the intersection of the hypotenuse and the short leg). The braid is soldered to the screen.

The disadvantage of the antenna is that it is somewhat bulky and somewhat difficult to position - the direction towards the router must be maintained within a few degrees.

Connection

After assembling the Wi-Fi antenna, you will definitely have a question about how to connect it. Typically, laptops and tablets do not have connectors for this. To solve the problem, buy an external antenna for mobile phone With magnetic adapter, which is glued to the body of the device. Disconnect the cable from the magazine device and use it for your own purposes. Of course, in this case, signal losses will increase, and the actual reception range will be slightly lower than expected. But you don’t have to open the computer and manipulate its circuitry.

Neatly assembled WiFi antenna will help you get in range free networks and do not refuse Internet services even during a trip out of town.


Now many people cannot imagine themselves without the Internet and Wi-Fi access points. To increase the signal power of the transceivers, both standard and additional antennas are used. Standard antennas range in power from 2 to 9 dBi, approximately. They look like this:


To increase the power and range of the directional signal, external antennas are used, which are installed outdoors and connected to the transmitting and receiving device with a 50 Ohm cable (not 75 Ohms!!!). They look like this:








In addition to 50 Ohm resistance, the connecting cable has specific tips:


Cables and lugs are available in an assortment in radio-electronic stores. But the antennas themselves are not cheap. If you look at what’s inside such an antenna, you’ll understand that it’s not worth the money:


After looking and monitoring the Internet, I decided to do it myself.

So, we will need:
– foil fiberglass, one-sided, 1.5 – 2 mm thick, dimensions 220 by 230 mm;
– jigsaw, with a metal file;
– drill or screwdriver;
– fine sandpaper, metal drills;
– a can of varnish;
– metal sheet, dimensions 270*240, thickness 0.5-1 mm;
– ferric chloride solution and container (tray for example).

So, stage one.

We mark and cut the fiberglass sheet to our sizes. We process the edges and clean the surface of the copper side.

The pattern of conductors and vibrators of our antenna will be cut out on the film. To transfer the film to the copper coating of the PCB, for convenience, ask either to immediately stick it on the cut or take the transport (advertising) film with you.

Stage three – gluing the pattern.
Before gluing the film to copper, it is necessary to degrease and allow to dry. Then we take it from a sheet of self-adhesive paper, cut out our pattern at right angles (if they have printed a lot of them) and apply advertising film to it (if we haven’t applied it at the company). Peel off protective film and remove the unnecessary part of the pattern, the background. We glue everything that remains onto the copper part of the PCB, smoothing it out and preventing air bubbles from forming. It will turn out like this:

Stage four.
Prepare a container of suitable size. We dilute ferric chloride in a proportion of approximately 100 g per 0.5 liter of water, heated to 60-65 degrees Celsius. We dismantle the advertising film. We lower our structure with fiberglass to the bottom of the container. Periodically fidgeting with the workpiece along the bottom of the container, we wait for the end of etching of the copper layer. When finished, rinse under running water and wipe dry. It will turn out like this:


We remove the self-adhesive. Next, in the round polygon, we drill a hole for the central pin of the connector for the cable. We take a can of varnish, open it in several layers and dry each one. Then we carefully clean and tin the soldering area.


Then, in the corners of the PCB and the metal plate, we drill four holes to connect like a sandwich, but with a gap. The distance between the copper layer and the beginning of the metal layer is 5mm.


The connector was first secured with a nut to the plate, and the plate to the screen surface.

Wi-Fi is a technology that can only function normally within line of sight. Wireless network easily get lost among walls, furniture and other obstacles in the apartment. Moving an adapter or router around the house in order to increase the efficiency of appliances is not always possible. A more correct approach is to use an external, more powerful antenna - the active part of the transmitting/receiving device.

Types of Wi-Fi antennas

In terms of use, all Wi-Fi antennas are divided into two classes:

  • for outdoor use (outdoor),
  • for indoor use.

These antennas differ primarily in their size and gain. The outdoor class implies large dimensions and the ability to attach to any support (surface). High gain in such antennas is achieved by design features. Such devices are usually used for wireless transmission data between points that are located at a significant distance from each other. It is preferable to install them in the line of sight.

Depending on the type of antenna, Wi-Fi is characterized by a higher or lower gain - one of the most important parameters of any receiving and transmitting equipment

Indoor class antennas are designed for indoor use; they are smaller in size and do not have outstanding gain and power. Internal antennas are attached either directly to the transmitting/receiving gadget, to the wall, or placed on the surface. The antenna is connected to the device board either directly or via a cable.

Additional Wi-Fi antenna in an apartment or house

The main reason for needing an additional Wi-Fi antenna is to strengthen a weak signal. This situation may arise in the following cases:

  • The Wi-Fi access point is located at a considerable distance (if the room is large), there are obstacles (walls, ceilings);
  • The router is not powerful enough.

Also, an additional Wi-Fi antenna may be needed if you need to organize a “router - several client points” network, or if you need to connect several PCs together “over the air”.

DIY making

On the Internet you can find many recommendations for making the most different types Wi-Fi antennas at home. As a rule, replicating most designs does not require deep knowledge of radio electronics, scarce materials or specialized tools. You can make any of the Wi-Fi antennas using the instructions below in just a couple of hours.

Double biquadratic

Antenna " double square» for Wi-Fi and its modifications - the most popular on the network. The classic biquadratic has good coefficient gain and wide radiation pattern. The dual biquad antenna, discussed below, has even better performance.

To repeat the design you will need:

  • copper core (wire) with a cross section of 2 mm;
  • a small sheet of aluminum 1–2 mm thick;
  • a piece of rubber (vinyl) tube, plastic ties;
  • soldering iron, solder, rosin, drill, drills, pliers;
  • cable for connection.

Making an antenna is not difficult, the main thing is to accurately maintain the dimensions, since even small deviations threaten to shift the operating parameters:

  1. We draw a sketch. The length of one side of each square is 30 mm, the dimensions of the reflector are 220 × 100 mm, the distance between the active part and the reflector is 15 mm. We mark the holes.

    Double biquad - an improved version of the classic biquad antenna

  2. We bend the copper core strictly in accordance with the template. We clean (if the wire is varnished) and solder the ends.

    Even a small error in size (literally a couple of millimeters) will worsen the quality of the antenna.

  3. We make a reflector from a sheet of aluminum. We drill holes with a diameter of 3–4 mm.

    The reflector can also be made from a copper plate or (at worst) a steel sheet

  4. Using plastic ties through rubber tubes, we fasten the active element of the antenna to the plate.

    The antenna mounting posts to the reflector must be made of non-conductive material

  5. We secure the adapter (or cable, if the device is located remotely) with plastic ties. Solder the removed wires. The distance between the contacts is 5 mm.

    The adapter should be attached as securely as possible, but carefully so as not to damage the device

The advantages of this design include:

  • easy and fast production,
  • Significant signal amplification and stable operation.

Perhaps the only drawback of such an antenna is that even small deviations from the required dimensions threaten to reduce its efficiency.

From an aluminum can

This design, of course, cannot be called a full-fledged antenna (essentially, it is a reflector), but to some extent it can be strengthened weak signal It is Wi-Fi capable.

What you will need:

  • empty aluminum can,
  • knife and scissors,
  • a piece of plasticine.

In terms of ease of manufacture, an antenna made from an aluminum can has no equal:

  1. Rinse the jar. Cut off the bottom with a knife.

    Be careful when carrying out work, health is more valuable than even the highest quality Wi-Fi antenna

  2. Make a cut at the top, but not all the way - leave a 1.5–2 cm long section uncut.

    You can also break off the opener at this stage.

  3. Use scissors to cut the can lengthwise from the back side.

    An aluminum can can be easily cut with any scissors, as long as the latter are sharp enough

  4. Bend the metal.

    The opening angle can be selected experimentally after installation, focusing on the Wi-Fi signal level

  5. Attach the reflector to the device using plasticine, placing it on the standard antenna of the router. Point in the right direction.

    In the absence of plasticine, use chewing gum

Advantages of an antenna made from an aluminum can:

  • ease of manufacture,
  • absence of scarce materials,
  • universality (will work with any router with an external antenna).

Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting insufficient signal amplification and unstable reception/transmission directionality.

Powerful sheet metal antenna

Wi-Fi antenna made of sheet metal, known as FA-20, is characterized by increased power and can be used to receive signals from remote (up to several kilometers) access points.

To make it you will need:

  • sheet metal;
  • powerful soldering iron (100 W), solder, flux (soldering acid);
  • dielectric stands, fasteners (screws, nuts);
  • drill, drill bits;
  • connection cable;
  • metal scissors, wooden hammer, fine sandpaper, pliers.

Replicating the design requires at least basic plumbing skills.

FA-20 manufacturing instructions:

  1. Using metal scissors, we cut out quadrangles and strips, strictly observing the indicated dimensions. It is advisable to sand the edges.

    Antenna parts are cut out individually and then soldered together

  2. We solder the antenna elements. We use solder and a special flux for soldering. It is more convenient to do this on a wooden surface.

    Soldering of tin elements should be carried out in a well-ventilated area

  3. We wash the finished structure under running water to remove acid. We drill holes with a diameter of 3–5 mm.

    If necessary, level the antenna with a wooden hammer (mallet)

  4. We make a box. Dimensions - 450×180 mm. The height of the sides is 2–3 cm. If you do not have the skills of a tinsmith, in principle, you can do without the sides (losing a little in sensitivity) by simply cutting out a rectangle. We drill holes in it that coincide with the holes of the active elements. We fasten the parts on the racks, the distance between the parts is 20 mm.

    Support posts must be made of insulating material

  5. We solder the cable: the red dot is the central core, the blue dot is the common (screen).

    To connect the antenna to the router, a regular television cable will do.

Advantages of a homemade antenna made from sheet metal:

  • high power,
  • good focus,
  • no scarce or expensive materials are required for manufacturing.

A significant disadvantage of the FA-20 is the complexity of its manufacture. In addition, the antenna is quite large and is most likely suitable for installation on a roof or balcony.

DIY Wi-Fi antenna variations

On the Internet, among the huge variety of homemade Wi-Fi antennas, the most common is the so-called “double square” and its variants. However, you can also see a lot of crafts that differ from the classics.

You can choose and try to make any of the antennas, but you should remember that not all of these products are truly highly efficient, as the authors claim.

Photo gallery: other homemade designs

The MIMO antenna has two circuits inside one housing and, accordingly, two connectors for separate reception and transmission. This variation of the biquad antenna repeatedly amplifies the signal. The reflector of the biquad antenna is often made of foil fiberglass. The Wi-Fi disk antenna is highly directive and can be used both indoors and outdoors. so on the street The antenna made from cans looks original, but in fact it is not a very effective design. The petal steamer in this design can be replaced with a colander or an iron bowl

Connection

Way Wi-Fi connections antenna depends on the type of router, adapter or other device you are using. In most cases, you will have to open the gadget, find the place where the standard antenna is connected (soldered), and similarly attach (solder) a homemade cable. It is very convenient when the gadget provides an independent connection for an external antenna; this can be done in the form of:

  • connector in the battery compartment, on back cover device, inside the case, etc.;
  • the so-called pigtail (usually located directly on the device board).

If the adapter has a removable standard antenna, a homemade design can be connected instead.

In any case (excluding the option with soldering), you will need an appropriate connector, which can be purchased at a radio store. You are lucky if your router has an output for connecting an external antenna headset You can install the pigtail socket on the gadget body yourself if you are confident in your own abilities A tiny connector on the device board is used to connect a special pigtail extension cord Sometimes the fastest and most reliable option is to solder the cable instead standard antenna

Settings

Setting up a homemade Wi-Fi antenna comes down, first of all, to installing it in the right direction. In this case, the following conditions must be observed:

  • take into account the signal propagation vector of the Wi-Fi signal receiver/transmitter;
  • take into account the presence of barriers between transmitting and receiving devices;
  • take into account that hard surfaces reflect the signal, while soft surfaces, on the contrary, absorb it;
  • If possible, install the antenna within line of sight relative to the receiver/transmitter.

For greater efficiency, the antenna should be directed towards the access point.

At the setup stage, the cable length should be reduced as much as possible, this way you will get rid of unnecessary signal losses and improve its quality.

How to test changes

The simplest and affordable option testing a homemade Wi-Fi antenna is to measure changes in the speed of the Internet channel. To do this, a comparative study of the results is carried out alternately with a connected standard antenna and a self-made one. You can carry out such measurements, for example, on the Speedtest resource. The system will automatically select the optimal server, check ping, download and upload speed.

Video: Do-it-yourself Wi-Fi signal strengthening

With the advent of Wi-Fi, many users have the opportunity to quickly and mobile access in Internet. For stable operation wireless connection It is recommended to use special expensive equipment, but you can get by with a little blood by collecting external antenna with your own hands.