Sata hard drive cable. Connecting a hard drive via usb, step by step instructions. Connecting the hard drive power cord

A hard drive or hard drive is an integral part of any computer.

It is also one of the most expensive components, so the wrong choice, connection and use can lead to failure of both the hard drive itself and the computer. And this is very annoying and costly.
To prevent this from happening, this article will cover the main ways to connect hard drives to PC.

Types of connectors for connecting hard drives

Connecting the hard drive power cord

Installing a hard drive

If you are going to purchase accessories for computer repair, then the SATA USB adapter is the first thing you need to pay attention to. Such a device allows communication between the two most common interfaces. The SATA standard is used in almost all internal drives personal computers and laptops. USB ports are equipped with any modern PC.

What can this adapter be used for? This is exactly the tool you need in case of failure hard drive. If things go wrong with the HDD, there is a good chance that the computer will stop booting. In this case, you will have to replace the disk, but the information that was stored on the previous drive will be lost.

If the HDD is partially damaged, this does not mean that all files on it are lost forever. Using a USB to SATA adapter, you will most likely be able to recover most of your data. Even if the disk is not initialized, there are many free programs, which will allow you to scan partitions and find any information that can be recovered.

Hardware failure is not the only reason to use an adapter. For example, a user may want to upgrade to a larger and faster SSD drive. Using the adapter, you can transfer all the old data to new disk independently, without seeking help from specialists. In addition, HDDs have become incredibly cheap. Any user who regularly updates their computer usually has at least 1 drive with more than 500 GB. With this simple adapter, you can turn your HDD into an external drive to access your old files.

Anker USB3 to SATA Converter

Not all SATA USB devices are the same. Some use an outdated standard that negatively impacts throughput. Others may not be compatible with new disc types. There are varieties of adapters that compare favorably with the rest. First of all, you should pay attention to the Anker USB 3 to SATA Converter Adapter Cable.

Studying Anker products, one can come to the conclusion that the company has no shortage of components and peripherals ah for computers. Judging by the numerous reviews, everything from chargers and ending with cables or adapters, users rate very highly. You may not have seen the products of this company in local retail outlets, but you can easily find them in online stores.

Anker's USB to SATA adapter is a simple device that does the job well. The adapter is equipped with only the most necessary equipment, and there are no extra components in it. The developers have done everything possible to ensure that the device perfectly copes with the task assigned to it. The USB SATA adapter is a black rectangular box. This allows it to be placed on a flat surface, preventing the drive from detaching during use.

2 cables can be connected on the back of the device: USB 3 for data transfer and an optional power cord for use with powerful drives. The cables are strong and durable, making this adapter useful even if the distance between the computer and the SATA 2 device is short (causing the wires to be bent). With its impeccable design, the device will look great in the office or digital equipment repair shop.

Adapter features from Anker

Unlike some other adapters on the market, Anker is equipped with a SATA 3 hardware controller. If the device relies on software to convert signals, this can lead to performance and compatibility issues. Fortunately used hardware controller Anker is standard and has been extensively tested with various devices. This means that almost any computer or drive that can be physically connected to this adapter will work. The built-in power adapter supports both 2.5" and 3.5" drives.

The USB 3 port is capable of delivering only a relatively small amount of power. This is enough to power compact 2.5" drives and SSD drives. But for 3.5-inch devices, you need a little more power, and a power adapter will help in such a situation. As for compatibility, you can use hard drives, SSD, Blu-Ray drives, DVD recorders and combo drives. The adapter works with almost all operating systems from Microsoft, starting with Windows 98 and ending with Windows 10. Mac OS is also supported. Theoretically, there is no reason to believe that a SATA to USB adapter will refuse to work with Linux, but this system is not officially supported.

Thanks to the USB 3 interface, data transfer is accelerated. The theoretical limit is 5 Gbps, but it is quite difficult to achieve this in practice. When using an SSD, read speeds are typically around 350 Mbps and write speeds around 250 Mbps. Record data transfer rates can only be achieved if you use the most fast SSD available on the market. In cases with conventional PC hard drives maximum speed is 120 Mbps for reading and 100 Mbps for writing. In this case, the decrease bandwidth via USB is not connected to the adapter, but to the outdated HDD technology.

Not much on this adapter additional features because simplicity is its main advantage. The operating system does not recognize it as an adapter, but simply sees the standard external drive via USB. This means that all firmware for Reserve copy will work flawlessly. You can use any data recovery program or create images without any special drivers and settings. Due to the lack of drivers, the SATA USB adapter will work in safe mode and this makes it ideal for diagnosis and repair.

Inateck USB3 to IDE/SATA Converter

The Inateck Universal USB 3 to IDE/SATA Converter was created by a popular peripheral manufacturer that develops not only consumer but also professional devices. Many of Inateck's products offer enhanced functionality while being priced competitively.

Despite the large number of options, the adapter is compatible with all types of operating systems and drives via USB. The only major difference between the adapter and other similar devices is the support for IDE drives. Such drives have long gone out of fashion, but they are still used by some users. This connection standard is used for PCs, laptops, CD and DVD drives, and devices that read floppy disks.

Many adapters are only compatible with small IDE drives because they don't have power. But in this case, thanks to a special power cable, you can easily use not only 3.5-inch, but also 5.25-inch drives. The adapter works with OSX, as well as operating systems from Microsoft, from Windows XP to Windows 10.

In the era of computer technology, the speed of development of ports for the communication of the latter also does not graze the rear. Another thing is that end users do not need such a race. They did not have time to buy one device, but it no longer fits. Today we will deal with sata-usb adapters.

• What will be required
• Instruction
• Tips
• Worth paying attention

What will be required

1. Chip converter;
2. Printed circuit board;
3. Soldering Station;
4. Programmer.

Instruction

In order not to torment busy visitors, let's say right away that it is prohibitively easier and cheaper to go to the nearest computer store, pay the equivalent of a couple of US dollars and get a known working device, spending up to an hour of your time on it.

Further article for people who do not tolerate slippery beliefs, requiring evidence, or simply inquisitive individuals.

1. You should start by getting a converter chip. Since the usb / sata protocols are fundamentally different, there is no way to "solder that conductor here, and this one here, and everything will work." In this case, signal conversion is required, which can only be done by a chip made specifically for the task of converting usb to sata. The figure shows one of the varieties of such chips.

2. Now you need printed circuit board. This is the "plate" on which the elements are attached. Considering that the board must be completely custom-wired for your device, it is impossible to buy one. How to make the board itself is a topic worthy of another 10 articles and equipment for a tidy sum (if there is such a thing - super, you're in luck).

3. You will need a soldering station to solder the chip onto the board and organize the wiring.

4. Finally, if you are a magician and you have completed all the previous instructions, your magic will be required further. After receiving the finished board, you will need a programmer - a device designed specifically for your board in order to program it exactly for specific needs.

If you have completed all the steps and are bored, can you try to make a sata ide adapter on your own and from vga to a tulip? We read, learn, try - unsubscribe about the results.

The cost of manufacturing a device with your own hands, not taking into account all the equipment, will exceed the store price tag by 30-200 times. Is it worth it?

Clearly.

Worth paying attention

You will have to perform each step of this instruction 15 times, since the work is microscopic, and a speck of dust that accidentally gets in will nullify all the work done. Perhaps, if you have nothing to occupy your inquisitive mind, you should make something simpler, for example, a homemade robot?

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How to make a sata ide adapter. Do it yourself

Storing information on your personal computer takes care of the hard drive. Progress, as you know, cannot stand still, so its speed and reliability are constantly improving. Generational change also entails a change in interfaces. Today we will talk about sata ide adapters.

• What will be required
• Instruction
• Tips
• Worth paying attention

What will be required

Instruction

Let's not hide the fact that Sata-type connectors are the development of ide-connections, the latest standard, nevertheless, is correctly called ATA. After the Sata interface appeared on the market, ATA was renamed PATA. As you may know, the bus running ide boasts an operating frequency of 33MHz. If we return to sata interface, the operation of its bus is determined by a frequency of 1.5 GHz. The difference, you see, is decent.

This immediately dismisses the possibility of the concept of "adapter", because it is impossible to passively connect two devices operating at different frequencies - for this, a special device called a converter is used. Its task is to remake the incoming signal of one protocol into another, understandable for the second device.

1. We will show clearly in the figure what a standard adapter-converter for ide and sata consists of.

2. As you can see, the front part is responsible for connecting the ide-cable, the back is provided for sata. The microcircuit in the center of the board is the same controller responsible for converting the incoming signal into the desired output. You can also notice the power connector - it is needed for the crystal oscillator (shiny "bath") and the controller.

3. Work on "homemade" does not stand up to criticism after finding out the cost of the device in the store. The proof below should discourage you from wasting a lot of your time on a fairly easily accessible and cheap device.

The price of $4-15 is a great indicator.

Also find out if you can make an adapter from vga to tulip and sata usb with your own hands.

Remember that any production of electronics at home cannot boast of proper security. You will have no one to complain to if your hard drive and controllers on the motherboard burn out due to the connection of a foreign device.

If you think you smell something fried, check your CPU temperature.

Worth paying attention

You can visually consider another representative here.

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DIY sata cable

Hello friends, readers and visitors of my blog. In this article I will talk about sata cable. As you know, all manufacturers of computer technology have long switched to sata power.

This article will describe all the nuances of creating a sata cable, or it is also called a sata adapter, with your own hands. And so we begin the process.

Sata cable or sata adapter

For starters, we need a non-working PC power supply. And from the power supply you need to pull out the longest sata cable.

The longest cable is desirable, but if this is not available, of course, a short one can also be used.

In most cases, it happens that some other connector is attached to the sata cable. You can leave it on and take it off if you don't need it or if it gets in the way for some reason.

In my case, two wires on the additional connector were cut off and in order to get rid of the unnecessary molex connector, I had to disassemble the sata adapter.

Disassembling a Sata cable

This connector is very easy to disassemble. All wires on the sate sit on plastic latches that need to be lifted with the tip of a pair of scissors.

Without releasing, we pull the wire back, without effort and without damage, the wire is carefully removed from the connector.

To cut off the extra wires from the molex, I use a tool in the form of wire cutters from a women's manicure set. You can also use small electrical wiring pliers.

Once all the extra wires are cut off, insert the wires into their places. Attention when removing the wires, do not remove them all at once, otherwise you will get confused.

Remove one wire, cut off the excess and insert it back. And we clean the cut ends of the wires for soldering.

Molex parsing

We will connect the cable made on sata to our computer power supply via a molex connector

To do this, you will have to disassemble the molex connector itself. We take a free molex connector on the power supply and disassemble it. Tips on wires in molex have lugs or lug,

which keep them in the connector itself. To remove the four wires, we need to find these ears and bend them inside the tip. To find this ear, use bright flashlight.

If the lug is not located, we pass a thin screwdriver or scissors around the tip

Once all the wires are removed, you need to solder the cleaned ends of the wires of the sata cable. Solder each wire by color. If for some reason it was not possible to understand, you can do the following. We take the wires of the sata cable, clean their ends by about 1.5 cm and wind them onto the tip of the molex and twist them so that they do not slip.

As we said above, the lugs of the molex wires are held on the ears in the connector and therefore, before putting the wires in place, you need to bend the tab on each wire

We assemble the molex connector and connect the sata power. It remains only to check the sata adapter. In my case, everything works to this day.

How to quickly make a sata cable

There is another option to make a sata adapter. To do this, as usual, take a sata cable, clean the ends by about 1.5 cm, twist the ends of the wires so that

Attention this method is not safe because at any time the wire can jump out of the plug and short out.

Do not use conventional adhesives, otherwise it will be very difficult to disassemble the connector.

Why was the article written?

I once encountered cases that my power supply did not have enough sata cable for power due to hard drives.

It would be an option to throw a cable from one hard drive or go to the store and buy a sata adapter.

But since I like to create something with my own hands, I decided to make this cable myself. And step by step went through the process.

life-pc.com

You need to connect an external HDD 2.5 to 500 GB to the laptop. / hdd:

You need to connect an external HDD 2.5 to 500 GB to the laptop. It is undesirable to fork out for the purchase of an adapter, and do-it-yourself work always gives + to the mood when using)

Here is the hard drive itself with a SATA connector

The 5V USB power connector seems to work, but is it possible?

And the most difficult thing is how to connect the part through which information is transmitted to the laptop? Has a SATA adapter

I thought about cutting and soldering the eSATA input and connecting it to the laptop, but again the question arises, is it possible to do this? Rummaged through the net who writes what is possible, someone writes what is impossible. If there is such an opportunity, which wires go where? and are there other ways? maybe someone will throw off a simple scheme?

Expand

joyreactor.cc

Make a do-it-yourself sata usb adapter photo

External hard you can make a disk with your own hands using ordinary SATA 2.5 or SATA 3.5 disks + special cable or an external HDD enclosure.

Let me explain for those who don't know:

SATA 3.5 are the usual hard drives that are used in your computer.

SATA 2.5 is a smaller version of the hard drive used in laptops.

If you purchase a simple USB-SATA adapter cable from the store, any hard drive can be used as an external hard drive by connecting it to any computer.

The method described above can be used, for example, to recover data, check disks for health, or use it as removable hard disk. The last option is not very convenient. Since the external device must also have a beautiful case.

I'm going to the store. We buy a case for external hard drive and stick SATA 2.5 into it.

For example, I bought a case for 300 rubles that allows you to work at USB 3.0 speeds and inserted a hard drive from an old laptop with a capacity of 160 GB into it.

What happened in the end can be clearly seen in the pictures.

Alexander Borisov, Samara

Specially for the site.

To access from a PC or laptop to content hard disk via USB, you will need a special device - an adapter.
Connection is not difficult, the main thing is the presence of a special device. There are several types of devices that allow you to connect a hard drive (hard drive, HDD) desktop computer or laptop to USB and open its content. Here are the two most popular: universal USB controller(for example, AGESTAR FUBCP) or case adapter (SATA External case, ITEC MySafe Advance and others).

In China, you can buy these built-in devices instead of a laptop drive:

There are also combined options with a complete set (adapter, cord, power supply).

The advantages of the first one are that such a device is cheaper than a case adapter, and often supports several types of connections (SATA, IDE). However, using a conventional hard drive as a portable drive is problematic with it, since it will not be protected by anything.

The second option is a case adapter, just designed to turn a hard drive into a portable memory device with a sufficiently large capacity, since the case will reliably protect against dust and mechanical damage. But at the same time, the versatility of the device suffers: before buying, you will have to decide which of the connectors the purchased adapter will support.

Using a hard drive in a case version is a fairly simple procedure, so let's look at how to connect and open a hard drive via usb using a universal adapter (for example, AGESTAR FUBCP).

Connection procedure

The first thing to do is to determine the type of HDD connector that you plan to connect via USB. Plugs are of the following types:

SATA (a more modern connector, used in freshly assembled PCs and laptops);

IDE (can be found mainly in "experienced" PCs).

We will consider the connection using the example of AGESTAR FUBCP, since it supports both the "old" and modern HDD. The average cost of such a device in Russian electronics stores is about 1,500 rubles.

The device is equipped with three interfaces (plugs):

• SATA (7-pin male).
• IDE 40pin (40-pin male, for IDE 3.5″).
• IDE 44pin (respectively, 44-pin plug, for IDE 1.8″/2.5″).

Description of AGESTAR FUBCP connectors below.

Step by step connecting HDD to computer

So, we have identified the connector of the connected hard drive, now it needs to be connected to the corresponding connector on the device. After that, insert the USB data connector (black) into the USB port of a computer or laptop. If we are working with a laptop hard drive (2.5”), we can turn on the adapter, and the HDD should appear in the list of computer drives. Sometimes with such a connection, the hard drive may not have enough power and will not be detected by the system. In this case, turn off and plug the red USB connector of the adapter into any of the ports on the computer and turn the adapter back on.

If the connected hard drive was previously installed in a PC (3.5 ”), it will not have enough power from your PC's USB. AGESTAR FUBCP comes with a power supply for 3.5” hard drives. To open the hard drive via USB, first we connect it to the appropriate connector (IDE / SATA), after that we insert the black USB cable into one of the computer's USB ports, then we connect the power supply that works from 220 V to the adapter (plug it into a socket) .

After all the cables are securely connected, turn on the adapter. The connection is completed, hdd will be detected by the computer, and it will be possible to work with it.

The note sets out in an accessible form simple steps to adapt using improvised means of the USB-to-SATA converter to a form suitable for use.

Preamble

So, the task is this: connect a SATA screw to a miniITX system in the absence of free SATA.

Part I

As it turned out, the board is not just a USB-to-SATA converter, but designed for devices such as laptop DVD drives that carry a mating connector on board slimSATA(differs in an additional non-standard power block). Thus, the adapter could not be connected to ordinary SATA devices and it was thrown into a dark corner of the box for a long time.

So, the adapter contains a slimSATA connector, which includes a standard SATA 7pin female connector (as on connecting cables):

Even if you bite out an additional non-standard slimSATA power connector from the board, then, being inserted into the HDD, the adapter will block access to the HDD power connector (SATA 15pin). There is only one way out - an extension cable for the SATA 7pin connector, for which we carefully cut off one of the ends of a standard SATA cable:

Now you can completely bite out the slimSATA connector from the adapter board and solder the end of the SATA cable (without interchanging the RX - TX diff pairs!):

To give mechanical strength to the junction of the cable and the board, it was decided to use PVC tape (I refused the initial idea to fill it with silicone sealant - it is not known how “non-conductor” it is at 1.5 GHz):

Now let's take a look at USB: since we need a replacement for the internal SATA, a two-meter skein from USB-A to USB-B inside the case will obviously be superfluous. We get rid of USB-B - we solder a piece of the board with connectors and electrolytes (they are needed only when powering a USB DVD drive).

We will connect the adapter to the internal USB comb on the motherboard. Why do we crimp / solder (for 480 Mbit / s - it’s better to solder) the contacts of the PLS-4 connector (of course, PLD-10 is more convenient, so that for the whole comb at once, but only PLS-4 was present in the household):

After checking the pinout of the comb on the motherboard and the USB pins of the converter chip SPIF225A, we assemble:

In total, after spending some time searching for the right pinouts, hastily an adapter of this kind was built, which made it possible to pick up a fallen off HDD without rebooting and, as a result, thanks to its dimensions and getting rid of atavisms, it fit quite harmoniously into the NASa interior:

Part II

We clean the copper and solder the holding pins on the back of the board:

The pin pitch of the footprint on the board and the SATA connector are the same, as a result we get a neatly soldered connector:

Let's take a look at the USB part. We mark and prepare a place on the board for landing miniUSB-B:

We solder the connector, showing virtuosity when working with a 0.65mm pitch of the miniUSB-B connector:

Here some explanations are needed, so, the sequence of actions with miniUSB-B:

1. The GND contact, so as not to interfere neatly (the material of the legs is fragile - at the first connector it broke off the leg when bent), we bend it up and solder it to the case - then we solder the case to the GND of the board;
2. The ID pin is not used - so we just pull it out of the connector with tweezers;
3. Now it has become a little freer - there are three conclusions left - they must be carefully pushed apart with tweezers so that there is more space for maneuvering with a soldering iron;
4. We solder small extension conductors to the D- and Vbus terminals, and slightly raise the inputs themselves so that they do not short on the board after installation;
5. We leave the D+ pin "as is" - physically during installation, it falls on the corresponding polygon on the board;
6. Now you can mount the connector on the board - we grab the case diagonally, then carefully deal with D- and Vbus.

The second version of the adapter turned out to be much more aesthetically pleasing:

Little touch

We solder a 10K resistor (PullUp to suppress noise on the TriState-pin?) and solder a chain of series-connected R and LED. A resistor with a value of hundreds of Ohms (I took 1kOhm), an LED with a cathode to pin 36 of the microcircuit (determine by dialing or documentation):

Outcome