How to change the cooler in a computer power supply. How to replace a CPU cooler, video card, computer power supply. Signs of a faulty computer cooling system

The fan, as part of the cooling system, runs continuously to protect the device from overheating. Untimely maintenance, as well as lack of preventive maintenance and lubrication of the cooler, damages the entire cooling system. As a result - incorrect work the device as a whole and failure of its components.

Signs of a malfunctioning cooling system:

Replacing the cooler in a laptop can solve these problems and improve the situation.

If you do not change the fan in time, after some time your device may need expensive repairs with the need to replace its most important parts, right down to the motherboard. Is it possible to replace the cooler at home? Yes, you can, and this is exactly what will be discussed in our article.

First stage: disassembling the laptop

In order to replace the fan yourself, you need to properly disassemble the laptop:


Stage two: fan replacement

After you disassembled the case and removed the components from the area where the cooler is located in the laptop, you gained access to the fan. Now you need to do the following:


So we replaced the cooler, now all that remains is to put the laptop back together.

Third stage: laptop assembly

After you have installed the fan and connected the necessary cables, proceed to assembly:


As you can see, it is not as difficult as it seems from the very beginning. The most important thing is to follow the instructions exactly, which will help minimize the likelihood of accidental breakdown. If any difficulties or problems arise, it is recommended to find instructions for disassembling and assembling your specific PC model. On the Internet you will definitely find information on the design of such devices as acer, asus, dell, hp, Lenovo, Samsung, Packard bell.

Stage four: performance check

After you have put the laptop back together, turn it on and let it run for a while. Using special program, test it and check the CPU temperature. Usually it decreases by 7-10 degrees.

In addition, your computer should be quieter and more stable. The system should not slow down, but on the contrary, it should function without failures. The service life of the device is also significantly increased. If nothing has changed, then perhaps you did something wrong or your device needs to replace the cooler with a more powerful one.

Now you know how to change a fan on a laptop at home.

How much does a replacement cost if you call a technician?

And now I propose to calculate how much such a service costs repairmen. The specific price depends on your region of residence, on average it is from 800 rubles, excluding, of course, the price of the component itself. It can also be difficult, especially for a beginner, to track the quality of a particular spare part, and in general, whether it is new.

Producing independent replacement cooler in your laptop, you not only save and protect yourself, but also learn to do it yourself.

All active components of a computer generate heat. Especially a lot of heat is generated by the processor, video card, RAM and power supply. Natural air circulation does not always allow the heat generated to be removed until the temperature of the elements drops below the maximum permissible value, which should not exceed 80˚C.

The optimal heating temperature for the operation of semiconductor devices lies in the range of up to 60˚C. This issue is especially relevant in the summer, when the ambient temperature reaches 30˚C. When the processor overheats, it starts to slow down, crashes and causes the computer to freeze. It rarely fails, since there is a thermal protection circuit.

Program for measuring processor temperature

In order to be able to find out and control the temperature of the computer processors and video cards during computer operation, sensors are installed in their cores. IN modern computers The CPU temperature can be found by going into the BIOS. But rebooting the computer while working on it is inconvenient, and during the reboot the load on the processors will decrease and the measured temperature will be lower than it was during the maximum load of the processors.

But this issue is easily resolved with the help of the program. It is enough to launch the utility and you can monitor the operating temperature Computer CPU. Programs, as a rule, provide a lot of additional information on the operation of the computer.

I bring to your attention two that I have tested simple programs for monitoring the temperature of processors, which can be downloaded directly from my website. These utilities do not need to be installed; you just need to run them and immediately see the CPU temperature and many other computer parameters in the pop-up window.

Depending on the type of cooler, the connectors are two, three or four pin. The supply voltage is supplied to the two-pin connector by a wire black red wire (+12 V).

The supply voltage is supplied to the three-pin connector in the same way as to the two-pin connector, using a wire black colors (–12 V, first pin) and red wire (+12 V). But one more conductor has been added yellow color through which a signal is transmitted from the Hall cooler rotation speed sensor to the motherboard. This conductor does not take part in the operation of the cooler, since it is informational and allows you to control the rotation speed on the monitor. Connect yellow The wire is not necessary; without it the cooler will work just as well.

For four-pin coolers, the wire colors are different. Black– -12 V, yellow– +12 V, green– rotation speed sensor, and blue– to supply a rotation speed control signal from the motherboard. On motherboard Next to the connector for connecting the processor cooler there is usually a CPU_FAN marking, as in the photo below.

In addition to the connector for connecting the processor cooler, the motherboard usually has several more connectors. They are all the same type and easy to find. One three-pin connector is designed to connect a cooler installed in the system side housing. Next to it there is usually the inscription SYS_FAN. Another one or two are also three-pin without inscriptions. They are usually free and you can, if necessary, connect one or two additional coolers.

Four-wire coolers are rarely used. Typically, the rotation speed of the cooler is regulated by changing the supply voltage, which varies depending on the heating temperature of the processor.

The work must be carried out very carefully, making sure that the tool does not accidentally slip or hit the motherboard. Sometimes it is difficult to get to the latches and it can be easier to remove the entire radiator and then remove the cooler. But here you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to apply a thin layer of heat-conducting paste to the surface of the radiator and processor, instead of the dried one.

It is possible to replace such a cooler with a standard one. It is enough to make a few fasteners. By technical specifications A cooler from a computer power supply is a good replacement. Sometimes, a cooler of this size is for additional cooling installed in the housing system unit.

From the broken plugs from the system unit, from the place for installing additional cards, I made 2 strips. I screwed them to the cooler with the 4 screws that were removed when dismantling it. I cut off the supply wires from the noisy cooler and connected them with the conductors of the new one using shift technology. The red wire (+12 V) is connected to the red, the black (-12 V, common) to the black. Even if you accidentally connect it incorrectly, nothing will happen, the cooler will simply not work. The yellow wire, through which the speed signal is transmitted from the cooler, was not connected. I don’t like it when the rotation speed of the cooler impeller constantly changes with a “howl.” Therefore, the lack of feedback does not bother me.

Using 2 self-tapping screws, I screwed the cooler to the processor radiator through the gaps in the impeller. Self-tapping screws must be selected with such a diameter to ensure reliable fixation. If a self-tapping screw accidentally gets on the motherboard while the computer is running, it can damage it.

Tests, after replacing the cooler, showed quiet operation of the computer and sufficient cooling of the processor at an ambient temperature of more than 30˚C. The processor temperature at full load, according to the BIOS, did not exceed 60˚C.

Replacing a video card cooler

All video cards have coolers of original designs, and it is almost impossible to purchase exactly the same one, especially if the card has worked for many years.

Replacing the cooler with a standard fan

The cooler on the video card began to make unbearable noise. I decided to lubricate the bearing, took it apart and found that the plastic base of the impeller was cracked.

In this case, lubricant will no longer help; the cooler needs to be replaced with a new one. I selected the cooler according to the diameter of the impeller and found one with a larger size. This means it will cool even better than the existing original cooler.


When selecting a new cooler, you need to take into account the size of the radiator fins, so as not to make additional fasteners and screw the screws directly into the grooves between its fins. I secured it with two self-tapping screws, which turned out to be quite enough, since the radiator fins turned out to be quite rigid. It can also be secured with four self-tapping screws. If you don’t want to fasten it with self-tapping screws, you can successfully tie the cooler by the mounting holes with a thick thread to the radiator fins on two opposite sides. It will hold up no worse.

The supply voltage was supplied to the standard video card cooler through a two-pin connector. The new one had three contacts. In order not to do extra work, installed the video card in the slot and connected the cooler to the motherboard. They almost always have free three-pin connectors for connecting additional coolers. The cooler that was previously installed on the video card did not have a label and it is quite possible that it was designed for a supply voltage of 5 V. Therefore, if you connect the cooler to the connector on the video card when replacing it, pay attention to the correspondence of the supply voltages.

The test showed quiet operation and sufficient cooling of the video processor.

Modification of a standard cooler for installation in a video card

The computer began to freeze; when opening it, it was discovered that the cooler impeller installed on the video card did not rotate.


After removing the cooler, it became obvious that it could not be repaired. The microcircuit regulating the rotation speed of the cooler burned out, as a result of which the stator winding was charred, and the cooler fell into pieces due to overheating.


It was possible to screw a standard cooler to the radiator with self-tapping screws, as in the previous case, but I wanted to do everything professionally.

To replace it, a standard cooler of a suitable size for a voltage of 12 V was selected (the burnt one was also designed for a voltage of 12 V) and the housing ring was removed from it using a hacksaw, as shown in the photo.

To accurately drill holes, an old cooler was used as a jig. To do this, the coolers were connected to each other using a thread, as in the photo. After drilling the first hole, to accurately obtain the next ones, a self-tapping screw was immediately inserted into it.

Since the connector for supplying power voltage on the old cooler was different in design, we had to unsolder the wires from the connector from the board of the burnt one and solder them, observing the color coding, to the board of the new cooler.


The mounting tabs of the new cooler turned out to be thicker than those of the burnt one. Therefore, I had to use longer self-tapping screws for fastening. As you can see in the photo, after modification the cooler fits perfectly into the shape of the video card radiator.


Before installing the video card into the computer, supply voltage was applied to the cooler connector. It worked quietly and blew the radiator fins well. Checking the heating temperature of the radiator after installing the video card in the computer showed good performance of the new cooler.

Repeated video card repair due to failure of the replaced cooler

Six months later, in the summer, the video card processor began to overheat. Analysis showed that the newly installed cooler stopped working. The impeller did not rotate; it was difficult to turn by hand.


It became obvious that the cooler burned out due to imperfect design of the cooling system. It fit tightly to the radiator with its base, as a result, it not only worsened the heat removal from the hottest surface of the radiator, but also heated up to a high temperature.

Therefore, when replacing a failed cooler with a new one, it was decided to secure it in such a way that the cooler would blow air not only on the radiator, but also on itself.

To replace it, we took a used brand-name Pentium processor cooler of a suitable size, which had served for many years but was in excellent condition. Before installation, it was disassembled and the bearing was lubricated with graphite grease.

The cooler from the processor had a three-pin connector, and the video card had a two-pin connector. There were two options for connecting the cooler to the power circuit. To the motherboard without re-soldering the wires, or to the video card board, with re-soldering.

Any motherboard has a pair of connectors, one of which is shown in the photo, for connecting coolers that are installed in the computer system unit case. If the length of the wire allows, you can install the video card and connect the cooler connector to one of these connectors. This connection method will additionally allow you to systematically control the rotation speed of the impeller.

But in my case, the length of the wire was not enough and therefore I decided to resolder the wires from the faulty one to the new cooler. To operate the cooler, you only need to supply power voltage.

The cooler was secured to the radiator using four self-tapping screws screwed between its ribs, as shown in the photo. The outer diameter of the screw should be slightly larger than the distance between the radiator fins.


More than two years have passed since then, the cooler is working stably. Thanks to the change in the way the cooler is installed, the cooling efficiency of the video processor has increased, and the cooler, by blowing air around itself, began to work in lighter conditions.

Replacing the cooler in the power supply

In order to do Maintenance or replace the cooler in the computer power supply, you still need to get to it. After removing the side cover of the system unit, you need to unscrew the four screws securing the power supply, which are located on the wall where all the connectors are located. In this case, the system unit must be positioned in such a way that the power supply released from its mounting does not fall onto the motherboard.

The power supply is removed from the system unit. From the power supply to all devices and the motherboard there are conductors with plugs at the ends supplying the supply voltage. If the wires are of sufficient length, then the connectors can not be disconnected, or only those from which the wires are stretched can be removed.

Having placed the power supply on the corner of the system unit, you need to unscrew the four screws marked in pink in the photo and remove the cover. Sometimes the screws are covered with paper labels and in order to unscrew them, you must first find them. The cover is removed by sliding upwards. You will be surprised by the amount of dust on the power supply elements. It must be completely removed with a brush and vacuum cleaner.

Next, the screws marked in yellow in the photo are unscrewed and the cooler is removed. There are two wires coming from the cooler, red and black. Red wire (+12 V), black (-12 V). For ease of maintenance of the cooler, it is better to unscrew the power supply board and unsolder these wires, but this is not necessary; if it is enough to restore normal operation of the cooler, just lubricate it.

Reducing cooler speed

If the performance of the cooler after replacement has become more than necessary, you can reduce the speed by reducing the supply voltage supplied to it. It is enough to connect one diode of any type, or several in series, into the gap of the red wire, with the cathode (it is usually marked with a strip on the case) towards the cooler. If the marking of the diode is not clear, then you can turn it on, as necessary, if the cooler does not rotate, swap the ends of the diode connection.

One diode will reduce the supply voltage by 0.8 V, or to 11.2 V. Connecting five diodes in series, for example, will reduce the cooler supply voltage by 4 V, it will become equal to 8 V.

By reducing the speed, you need to make sure that the processor does not overheat when running at full load. For this purpose, there are tools that allow you to control the rotation speed of the cooler and the heating temperature of the processor without leaving the operating system. Operating the processor in severe thermal conditions leads to a slowdown in its performance, and the computer may malfunction and even freeze.

Background

Enough for a long time A widely used and well-deserved cooler, the Volcano 6 CU, which cooled the Athlon 1.3 GHz in normal operation, completely satisfied my ideas about the balanced ratio of performance and noise.
However, a year after installing the cooler, its fan was constantly running at 4500 rpm. began to pester me with an extremely unpleasant hum that was clearly visible in any operating mode. Cleaning and lubricating the fan bearings relieved me of the unpleasant whistling noise for a while. However, the main noise came from the air flow colliding with the radiator fins. The noise was especially caused by the fact that the fan was mounted on the radiator from above without any gap. The diameter of the standard fan channel is 56 mm, the rotor diameter is 36 mm. As a result, a dead zone formed in the center of the radiator, directly opposite the copper patch, and the cooler’s efficiency dropped. Of course, I didn’t measure it, but a simple experiment with a cardboard cylinder, which made it possible to raise the fan 5 cm above the radiator, proved this. The processor temperature at rest dropped by 2 degrees. Thus the idea was born, all that remained was to bring it to life, namely to raise the fan above the processor using an adapter.

It is quite obvious that the use of a standard fan in such a design, while increasing the cooling efficiency, will not lead to any significant reduction in noise. Therefore, it was decided to abandon its use. Some manufacturers produce plastic adapters for installing larger fans on processor radiators. In Petrozavodsk there were no such adapters available, despite the fact that computer stores and companies per capita are like “a fool’s candy wrappers.” I didn’t want to wait until they delivered it, because the sellers quoted unrealistic deadlines and fantastic prices for a piece of plastic.

It was necessary to carry out “deep mining of the subsoil”, the result of which was an old lens from an unknown optical device. Its main feature was a round duralumin hood, devoid of grooves on the inside (anyone with even a little knowledge of optics and photography will understand my surprise), which could impede the passage of air and create unnecessary noise. The size of the hood was quite suitable for the dimensions of the radiator and widely used fans; all that remained was to work with a hacksaw and a file. The modernization of the cooler was done a long time ago, when I never dreamed of a digital camera, so I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos taken “in hindsight.”

On one side, the hood was equipped with a thread for attaching to the lens. Approximately in the middle there was a square platform with beveled corners. After removing the protruding part of the hood, 4 holes of 70mm were drilled in the platform. TITAN fan, ideally suited for the impeller diameter and dimensions. The dimensions of the platform and the diameter of the upper part of the cone made it possible to install 80mm. fan, but the fly in the ointment turned out to be these very beveled corners, because of which there was nothing to attach it to. However, later the problem was easily solved with the help of 4 soft plastic ties.

To attach the adapter hood to the radiator, a threaded part was cut off from the lens and turned into a kind of cap nut using a file.

To connect the plate to which the fan was previously attached and the adapter, a faceplate was cut out of thin sheet metal.

A union nut was placed on the mounting plate, a faceplate was placed on top, and secured to the plate through the holes for mounting the standard fan using 4 self-tapping screws. An adapter with a fan was screwed on top.

3 fans were tried as a “wind blower”. The first, an 80mm case fan, successfully handled cooling in all modes. But I was much more attracted to the idea of ​​installing a fan with automatic speed control depending on the temperature of the radiator. For this purpose, a fan with built-in thermal control, Thermaltake Smart Case Fan A1214, was purchased.

To install the temperature sensor in the upper part of the copper coin, a recess was made using a drill and reamer. After installing the cooler, the mounting bracket securely pressed the sensor, which was recessed in a small amount of KPT 8 thermal paste. In the photo, a regular case fan is installed on the adapter.

I won’t bore the reader with details, I’ll just note that the noise of the cooler has ceased to stand out from the general background noise from the computer. The processor temperature at maximum load did not exceed 52 o C with all tested fans. In standby mode, the processor did not heat up above 37 o C. The use of a Thermaltake fan did not justify itself. When the 3200 rpm mark was exceeded, which happened in the maximum processor load mode, the fan still made the same unpleasant noise, in the fight against which I started the whole mess. Therefore, I sacrificed 3 degrees and replaced it with a regular case fan, constantly running at 2500 rpm. Perhaps in the future, as an experiment, I will replace it with a well-proven fan with thermal control from the TITAN TTC-W5TB/TC2 cooler.

According to theoretical calculations discovered on the Internet much later, two rules must be followed to ensure high cooling efficiency. First: the height of the free space above the fan must be at least one diameter of its impeller. Second: to eliminate the dead zone directly under the rotor, the distance between the fan and the radiator base must also be at least one fan diameter. At the time of redesigning the cooler, I could not be guided by these postulates, however, thanks to a successful coincidence of circumstances, the modernized cooler largely meets these requirements.

Conclusion

The height of the cooler assembly was 114mm. The distance from the lower edge of the fan to the copper penny has increased almost 2.5 times, amounting to 85mm, which allows you to easily install 80mm. fan. Well, compliance with the first rule depends entirely on the width of the case used and the presence of a ventilation hole in the side wall opposite the cooler. In accordance with Intel's recommendations for assembling computers based on its modern processors, the case must have such a hole. For various reasons, manufacturers cannot always comply with these rules (dimensions of the case and the cooler itself, design features of the coolers, etc.).

Well, “to the producer - producer, and to the consumer - consumer”. But from now on I don’t agree to put up with this. A simple experiment showed that the consumer is able to overcome the shortcomings of mass models, and, with skill, diligence and ingenuity, can turn consumer goods into an exclusive product. The dimensions of the union nut and adapter allow it to be adapted for installation on almost any small-sized radiators; you just need to cut out a new mounting plate.

Yuri Kraev
paganel76 (a) bk.ru
26 /06.2005


Man loves warmth. In the warmth it is comfortable and cozy, joyful and familiar. What a pity that the human brainchild, the computer, is trying to get rid of this heat as quickly as possible. One of these methods is installing coolers (fans).

As mentioned above, coolers are designed to remove heat. This is a “hybrid” of a radiator and a fan, which is installed on computer components with increased/high heat generation. Main application - CPU ( CPU), video card, power supply, chipset chips.

The main characteristics of the cooler are noise level and air performance. There is one caveat - these two characteristics are very rarely combined with each other. The higher the performance, the better the heat dissipation, but the noise level increases. In short, it's a double-edged sword.

One of the main computer coolers is designed to cool the CPU. It looks more massive and performs well. Its “smaller brothers” are the fans on the video card, chipset and power supply.

The main “assistant” of coolers is thermal paste. Thermal conductive paste is used to reduce the thermal resistance between two touching/closely spaced surfaces. It is applied to the thermal contact area (between the cooler radiator and the processor/board) and smeared when the surfaces are pressed against each other. In this case, the paste fills the smallest depressions in the surface, displacing air, which has very low thermal conductivity. Thermal paste is already applied to the surface of most modern coolers and covered with a special protective layer.

I think I'm talking. Initially I wanted to offer you step-by-step instructions for replacing the cooler. As one saying goes: “let's go back to our sheep.” So, there is a task - replacing the cooler. To do this, we need: screwdrivers (cross-shaped and flat-headed) - one, a cloth/wet wipe to remove thermal paste - two, a new fan - three, and thermal paste (if there is none on the cooler) - four.

Turn off the computer from the network. Disconnect all cables. Take a Phillips screwdriver and run it along the back and side walls to remove static electricity (carefully so as not to scratch the case). Unscrew the screws and remove the side cover. We turn the “system unit” on its side. We see a big fan. This is what we will change. Turn the mount against the pointer arrow (located on the mount) until it stops, then pull it up. There should be a soft click. We do the same procedure with the remaining three fasteners. If instead of four fasteners you see two levers, then move the fastening in the opposite direction (as shown in the picture). The cooler can be removed!

After the fan is removed, you need to wipe the processor with a damp cloth (rag, piece of paper) to remove any remaining thermal paste. We take a new cooler, remove the protective layer covering the thermal paste, and carefully install the fan on the processor. There is a wide recess along the entire width of the cooler base, which should be located above the socket protrusion (see picture below). If you install it with the recess on the opposite side, the cooler will be skewed and there will be no connection between the processor and the base. This threatens the processor with a chip or thermal breakdown (“death” of the CPU).

After you have installed the cooler, try to refrain from tilting it, rotating it (pressure is also undesirable), or removing it. This is fraught with chips and failure of the CPU. If for some reason the cooler still had to be removed, you will have to re-lubricate the required areas with thermal paste. If this is not done, so-called “air cushions” may appear, which lead to overheating and instability of the system.

All that remains is to secure the latches. The process is identical to removing the cooler, only everything needs to be done in reverse (press the latches and turn in the direction of the arrow). We did what we planned. It's time to return the side cover of the case to its place, connect all the cables, and turn on the computer. Yes, by the way, in addition to changing the cooler, we did another useful procedure - replacing thermal paste(over time it can dry out, so we carried out a kind of prevention).

Now about video card coolers. They are easy to install (unscrew 4 screws, remove the cooler, install a new one, first freeing the thermal paste from the protective layer, tighten the screws), but it is difficult to select the right one (this process causes certain difficulties).

In order to change the cooler in the power supply, you need to be “friendly” with a soldering iron (if you have cheap models), because In almost all standard power supplies, the fan wires are soldered. There will be no problems with more expensive models. I removed the power supply, unscrewed the screws, removed the power supply cover, disconnected the old cooler (after removing the wires from the port), installed a new one, connected it, and tightened the power supply cover.

That's all. Step-by-step instruction on replacing the cooler in your hands, general information too. If you don’t want to waste your time and be nervous about changing the cooler incorrectly, then contact the KLIK company. Experienced specialists will help resolve any issues with hardware and software. Urgent computer help is waiting for your call.

Replacing the cooler is another key point in

Replacing the cooler is necessary for reliable cooling and in addition, users must monitor the performance of the fan; it quickly becomes clogged with dust, after which the heat transfer process between the chips is disrupted. The processor heatsink will not be able to cope with the increased load, which is why some elements may burn out.

Replacing a cooler, simply put, is installing a new fan, which is necessary to cool the processor. Replacement is needed in cases where the old fan does not provide adequate cooling for the processor. As a result, the computer will start to freeze, it is possible spontaneous shutdown nutrition. No matter what kind of computer you have in your room, its performance means nothing without a reliable fan. Typically, three fans are installed under the system unit case - to cool the processor, take in cool air and exhaust hot air.

Installing a cooler on the processor

Replacing the CPU cooler is one of the primary needs that arises when upgrading your PC. Typically, replacement requires the installation of an aluminum or copper radiator, which is equipped with a pair of heat-conducting tubes.

Before you begin the “Replacing the Cooler” operation, we recommend that you make sure that the fan + radiator you purchased is compatible with the processor you are using. When installing a new cooling, you need to make sure that the radiator fits tightly to the processor cover, and there is a thin layer between them. Thermal paste can be purchased at any electronics store. It is important to remember that thermal paste must be applied in a thin layer. In some cases, thermal paste is supplied with the new cooling. If you have any problems with replacement, you can always contact private specialists or service center specialists.

Attaching the cooler to the motherboard is not very difficult. Replacement is carried out independently; this does not require special skills. After installing the fan, press the special latches; the design should fit snugly against the motherboard. At the same time, you should not overdo it with pressure on the plastic to avoid breakage.

Installing the cooler on the case

Replacing the cooler is possible not only for the main components. Often replacement is required for additional cooling after secondary fans fail. They are installed directly on the system unit case. If you need to install such a fan, disassemble the system unit and carefully inspect its “insides”. WITH reverse side The case must have special holes for new fans. If you don't find anything like this, make the holes yourself. Remember that the best option for any configuration is to install the same amount of fan for intake and exhaust.

First of all, you need to make sure that cold air enters from the outside, and after this comes another stage - the removal of hot air. The cooler is replaced on the front or side panel for air intake, and for exhaust - in the upper and rear areas of the system unit. This configuration is the most optimal and occurs most often. Thus, your computer will be provided with reliable air circulation in various areas of the “metal box”.

The noise level also plays an important role. Replacing a cooler also implies maximum comfort during further work. With increased load on the processor, the fans begin to work faster, which is why unpleasant noise begins to reach the user's ears. It is recommended to purchase fans no larger than 120 millimeters in diameter. Conventional arrows and other symbols will help you understand which way the blades rotate and how heated air is removed.

So, the cooler was replaced in accordance with all my instructions. Try starting your computer. At first, the fan may rattle and make strange sounds. Don't be alarmed, this is due to resonance with metal cases. If this noise bothers you, place a gasket in the area between the case and the new fan.
You can find out how to install a cooler on a processor by watching this video.

You can learn how to install a system unit cooler by watching this video.