A mouse 100 cm is broken, how to put it back together. How to fix a computer mouse without professional knowledge and experience? Typical mouse failures and how to fix them

After all, without it, the full operation of the machine is practically impossible. Next we will tell you how to disassemble and repair a computer mouse.

As a rule, these devices are quite reliable, a good mouse will last for several years, but it happens that over time it begins to function poorly or stops working altogether. Most often, buttons or a wheel may fail. A breakdown can occur for various reasons, but this is not a reason to take the device for repair or replace it with a new one, since the problem can be completely trivial and can be solved in a matter of minutes. Due to the fact that the mouse is not a complex device, you can easily repair it yourself, extending its service life for more than one year. Very often, when opening the mouse, it turns out that the cause of the breakdown was an ordinary blockage, but even if not, then making minor repairs will not be difficult.

To repair a mouse yourself, you will not need many tools that are present in almost every home. A screwdriver, pliers and scissors are the minimum required for the job, but perhaps also a soldering iron. In addition to the lack of material costs, the big plus is that you can immediately ensure normal operation of the computer and will not waste precious time on shopping and workshops.

There may not be many reasons why the mouse does not respond to your actions at all or some of its elements (buttons, wheel) have stopped working:

• the wire has chafed;
• the integrity of the board has been compromised;
• the wheel became loose;
• the lubricant used to treat the mechanism from the inside has dried out;
• The scroll sensor is broken;
• the optical sensor is clogged;
• LED is faulty;
• The button mechanism has become loose or broken.

Most of these breakdowns can be easily fixed at home by determining the cause after opening the device case.

How to disassemble a computer mouse

To repair or clean the device, there is no other option than to disassemble the mouse. As they say, our man is able to disassemble everything, most importantly, then return all structural elements to their place and not find unnecessary parts during assembly.

So, to open the case and disassemble the mouse, you need to arm yourself with a Phillips screwdriver, and then begin to perform a certain sequence of actions:

Regardless of which mouse needs to be opened, wired or wireless, the principle of disassembling any mouse will be the same. The main thing is to be careful when removing the cover and board, as some parts are very fragile. After the procedures, the device will be assembled in reverse order, it is important not to lose all the unscrewed screws before assembly.

Carrying out repairs

Once you have managed to disassemble the mouse, the cause of its problem will immediately become clear; it is possible that there will be no need to carry out repairs, because often the problem lies in a normal blockage. Then it is enough to carry out preventive maintenance, such as cleaning the mouse, and the device will again begin to please with its performance.

Clean the surface printed circuit board You can use a small brush, a piece of cloth (necessarily lint-free), a cotton pad or a swab. After brushing off the first dust, moisten a cotton pad or cloth with alcohol and carefully wipe all elements of the board, the wheel, and the inside of the case. The optical sensor of the mouse can be easily cleaned with a toothpick and cotton wool soaked in alcohol.

How to fix a mouse wheel

Wheel failure is a fairly common problem. If you notice that the wheel scrolls the slider on the screen in jumps, then most likely the scroll mechanism of the mouse is simply loose. To repair it, use small pliers to press the metal brackets that secure the sensor to the plastic elements of the mechanism. It is important not to overdo it and not break parts. Check how the wheel spins after the procedure.

If the wheel scrolls and does not react in any way to your actions, most likely part of its axis has broken off. Using a paper clip, you can build a new mount. Straighten the paper clip, bend it in half, twist it. Measure the resulting part along the length of the broken part, adding 1–2 mm, and bite off the excess with wire cutters. Now all that remains is to heat the edge of the new axle red-hot with a lighter and press it to the place where it was broken off. After the material has hardened, put the wheel in place and check how it turns.

If you have a wired mouse and the wire is frayed, this can be fixed by twisting or soldering.

Carefully cut the insulation in the place where the damage is noticed, strip the ends of the wires, twist them together according to color. First insulate the twists using heat shrink or electrical tape, cover all the twists together with insulation.

If you decide to use a soldering iron, the damaged part of the wire is simply cut off, the ends of the wires are tinned with solder, and then soldered to the board. It is important not to confuse the location of the wires and solder everything in the same places, because the common color scheme no, and each manufacturer chooses the colors of the veins at his own discretion.

How to fix buttons

It often happens that one or more mouse buttons stop working; first of all, you should clean them, perhaps this is due to plaque that accumulates over time.

When the button still works, but often does not work when pressed, then the problem must be looked for in its pusher, which could be worn out over time, which is due to poor contact with the microswitch. If a small dent is found, it is enough to fill it with a drop of molten plastic so that the button begins to function again.

If the problem persists, it may be due to a faulty microswitch. In this case, you need to unsolder the old switch and put in its place a new one or one taken from another mouse.

Some button problems can be solved without disassembling the mouse. Before trying to repair the device, it would be useful to delve into the mouse settings. It is important to make sure that the sticky button function is disabled and check the drivers, which largely depend on

If your computer mouse is broken, do not rush to buy a new one. It is quite possible that you will be able to repair the breakdown yourself and the device will serve you for many more years.

Mouse sensor is acting up

Often there is also a situation when we cannot accurately move the cursor to a certain point. It constantly trembles and moves on its own. This situation clearly indicates that the optical group of the mouse is clogged.

Clogging is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the diode light is reflected from the table. To get rid of such a blockage, you don’t even need to disassemble the mouse. Just turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside or has completely failed. In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor using a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it to remove any fine dust that may stick after it gets wet. After this, carefully, without pressing, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the sensor hole. After making a couple of turns and without stopping rotating, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.

If, after all attempts at cleaning, the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight hands, you can unsolder the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse. However, this already requires a certain skill, so not everyone will be able to pull it off...

Mouse wheel scrolls

It happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling begins to jump up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly common failure and it was this that prompted me to write this article.

First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel rotates in the groove. The groove itself and the wheel axle have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can become deformed, resulting in the axle slipping in the problem area.

If you have just such a problem, then it can be solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with adhesive tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is normal with the movement of the wheel, then the breakdown has occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). It may have become loose from prolonged use and should be tightened a little:

To do this, take small pliers and press them one by one on the four metal brackets that secure the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time press harder. Try connecting the mouse and checking whether the negative effect when scrolling decreases after each click.

Alas, in my case it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and spread of page jumps have decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and in a truly Russian way :) I cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from an old battery pack and stuck it inside the mechanism:

What’s most interesting is that this manipulation helped! All I have to do is cut off the excess length of the strip and assemble the mouse :)

Mouse buttons don't work

The last, and most annoying, breakdown is the non-working button. Whether it's left, right or the one under the wheel doesn't matter - they're all usually the same. The important thing is that a non-working button cannot be repaired in any way. You can only replace its microswitch by removing the non-working one with a soldering iron and replacing it with a new one or one borrowed from another mouse.

The microswitch has three “legs”, the first of which is a regular clamp, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. There is no need to solder the fastener. It only serves as a “fool proof” to prevent you from inserting the microswitch in the wrong direction by mistake.

Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn’t work every time you press it. Such a symptom may indicate that the edge of the button pusher, which presses the microswitch, has worn away due to frequent use.

We disassemble the mouse and carefully examine the problematic button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then that may be the problem. It is enough to fill the dented area with a drop of epoxy resin or melted plastic.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it. This issue can be solved by re-soldering the microswitch or... programmatically! In any case, before you take up the soldering iron, check that the mouse settings are correct in the Windows Control Panel:

By default, the double-click speed slider should be in the center, and the sticky mouse buttons option should be disabled. Try setting these parameters and check if the problem is resolved. If not, another radical one programmatic method Double-click "cure" - remove the mouse driver. How to properly remove a driver is written.

conclusions

Mice are one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their design, in most cases anyone can fix a mouse!

To do this, you don’t need to know how to solder or understand electronics. The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to successful repair.

I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly is broken in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the problem. Good luck with your renovation!

P.S. Permission is granted to freely copy and quote this article, provided that an open active link to the source is indicated and the authorship of Ruslan Tertyshny is preserved.

Mouse manipulator in life modern man plays a significant role and its failure at the wrong moment can cause trouble if there is no store nearby or a spare tailed one. In this article we will look at the main mouse failures and how to fix them. All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide into optical and ball mice; we will only note that among optical mice, laser mice are classified as more accurate. Optical manipulators also come in the visible spectrum (they emit red light) and the infrared spectrum; the performance of the emitter of the latter can be determined, for example, using a mobile phone camera.

For repair computer mouse we will need:

• screwdriver
• nippers (side cutters)
• multimeter
• soldering iron and solder
• heat shrink tube or others Consumables depending on the type of failure detected

Typical mouse failures and how to fix them

A mouse is one of the devices whose reliability has been brought to a high level (we are talking about devices produced by well-known brands, for example, I like the quality of A4-tech and Logitech products, and I absolutely do not like the quality of Gembird cords and buttons). Nevertheless, there are also weaknesses in this miracle of technology. Typical mouse failures include the following:

• broken wire
• button failure
• Scroll wheel is broken.

Broken wire and its repair

In 90% of cases, the breakdown of a wired mouse is associated with a bend in the wire at the base of the manipulator. This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire constantly bends when moving the mouse across the working surface. Signs of this breakdown are intermittent operation, or operation only with a certain “kink” in the wire. For compact “laptop” manipulators with a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, wire breaks near the USB connector are also typical. Repairing a broken wire is simple: after making sure that you have localized the break point, use wire cutters to bite off the wire a couple of centimeters above and below the damaged area. Next, we solder both tails, observing the color scheme of the wires. Don’t forget to insulate them using heat-shrinkable tubing or electrical tape (as a last resort, wrap each wire in several layers of tape).

Finally, you have to fix the wire in the base of the mouse; to do this, you can carefully cut the original rubber “cable entry”, remove the old one from it, insert a new cable and pour in a little glue; it also doesn’t hurt to glue the cable to the board or case. For further maintainability, I use hot melt adhesive. See the photo to see what it looks like after repair.

Problems with buttons and how to fix them

Incorrect execution of mouse button presses can have several different reasons; you can find out the reason practically “by hearing and touch”. The most common causes of problems with button operation are:

Scroll wheel failure

In the case of scroll wheel problems, there are 2 main reasons for their occurrence:

• Problems caused by the operation of the encoder. Outwardly they manifest themselves in uneven scrolling, which is accompanied by jerking of the page up and down. This problem is solved by carefully opening the encoder and removing dust from the contacts. Another option is to loosen the attachment of the encoder basket to its base. You can see how to tighten the fastening in this video clip
• Problems caused by mechanical damage to the wheel axle. If you overdid it and broke the axle, don’t despair, there are several options for eliminating this damage: you can find a self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, grind its head to create a semblance of a hexagon (trying it on the encoder so that there are no rotations) and, heating it over fire, screw it in instead of the missing part of the axle. The second option is to find a hexagonal key that exactly fits into the hole of the valcoder, saw it off along the length of the axle, carefully drill a hole in the scroll wheel and insert your new axle.

Finally, a few words about repairing wireless mice.

I haven’t had the opportunity to repair many of them yet, but a couple of directions for searching for breakdowns can be voiced:

• Nutrition. If the mouse is wireless, it means it has its own autonomous power source - a battery or a resonant induction power source (applies to wireless mice working only on the surface of the USB mat that comes with them). In any case, look at what is indicated on the bottom sticker of the mouse and compare it with the measured results. Pay attention to the fact that the voltage on the battery without a load may be normal, but when a load is connected it may drop. This may indicate that the battery is low and needs to be replaced, or that the device is consuming a lot of current ( short circuit in the circuit, or failure of some elements). In the case of using saline and low-quality batteries, it is possible that the battery may depressurize and the saline solution may get on the board. In this case, you need to wash the board with a brush and ethyl alcohol. It also doesn’t hurt to measure the current consumption and compare the resulting value with the data on the sticker.
• Emitter operation. The most obvious thing is the operation of the emitter, but it is not always possible to see it with the naked eye. If you have an infrared optical system You can see its performance using a digital camera, webcam or camera on your phone.
• Presence of radio interference. In a modern office, there are wi-fi access points on every square meter, radio mice, keyboards, wireless window break sensors, wireless fire sensors, and even motion sensors from the store opposite can create obstacles to the normal operation of the radio mouse. If radio mice from the same manufacturer are working near you, you can try installing software from the website of the manipulator manufacturer and force them to work on different channels (similar to wi-fi hotspots access, if such an opportunity is available in the software of your manipulator)

It started with left button perceived pressing only with significant force, and when pressed without effort, it did not work every time. If the mouse button no longer works, but it all started the same way, then the repair plan is the same. The mouse wheel is also not eternal, its restoration is described in the article, and if the wheel is alive, but does not work well (jerky), then about it here:. It was decided to get to the insides of the non-working mouse button and clean the contact points. To get to the button it would be a good idea to disassemble the mouse. There were no difficulties with this: I unscrewed two screws in the battery compartment and the case opened:

The photo below shows the culprit. A small button in the center of the photo next to the inverted inscription SW1:

Now you need to disassemble the button itself

Its upper part sits on four plastic pins soldered on top. We carefully cut off this fastener with a stationery knife, use it to pick it out and remove the upper part. Now we have access to the internal parts: the moving parts of the button and the contact metal membrane (see photo below).

The lower side of the membrane, which is the closing side, is covered with a dark coating, which is what we need to remove. I wiped it with alcohol, then rubbed it well - it didn’t help. Then we had to use a mechanical method - cleaning with a stationery knife, but only very carefully without unnecessary effort, so as not to damage the membrane, because it may lose its ability to click.

It would be a good idea to clean the other buttons as well; they are probably also covered with plaque and will soon begin to work poorly. Tested on personal experience, so it was. Here are a couple of photos showing the cleaning results:

Good day, dear readers!

The mouse and keyboard are among the most used peripheral devices. This is why these devices, especially mice, quickly develop all sorts of operational problems. This may be poor response of buttons, double pressing of buttons with a single click, problems with the scroll wheel (it moves jerkily), problems with the system detecting the device. Most problems are caused by mechanical wear and dirt getting inside the mouse body.
If your mouse buttons do not work well when you press them or a double click works, then the likely reason lies precisely in mechanical wear. All elements of the manipulator are made of plastic and with frequent use they quickly wear out and wear appears. When you click, the mouse button stroke is no longer sufficient for the button to work reliably.

1. Mouse button doesn't work

A) Detecting wear is fairly easy. You should disassemble the mouse; to do this, just unscrew one or two screws from its bottom side. Mouse buttons can have different designs, but most are the plastic part of the top cover (or separate element), which, through a plastic lever, acts on a button soldered on a printed circuit board. It is on this plastic lever that the wear appears. To restore the functionality of the mouse, you need to clean the surface of the lever using a file or sandpaper, ensuring a flat surface. Also pay attention to the reliability of the mounting of the printed circuit board and the quality of the solder joints of the button.

b) Let’s not go far from this problem and will analyze in more detail the quality of the button itself, or in other words the mikrik, but if the problem lies in the mikrik itself, then we can simply solder it and any old mouse can become a donor or purchase it in a special store, if there is one available nearby. To re-solder the microphone, we heat the legs of the microswitch and pry it with a knife (or by pulling with your fingers reverse side) pull out the switch, this must be done simultaneously and quickly, ( When soldering, it is advisable not to overheat the button). After desoldering the board, it is necessary to clean the holes from old solder so that you can easily insert and solder the working mic.

V) Let's look at an option in which we could do without a soldering iron. To do this we need to disassemble the button, this is not difficult to do. Use a thin screwdriver or a needle to pry up the cover, first from one side, then from the other, and remove the cover. After removal, a button will fall out of the cover, which it is advisable not to lose. The problem is that over time the tongue on the record begins to sag, we need to bend it slightly. We assemble the button and check the mouse for functionality.

2. The mouse wheel does not work (it moves jerkily)

To solve this problem, we, of course, need to disassemble the mouse, this time we will work with a wireless pointing device. And so we unscrew the screws on the bottom of the mouse and remove its upper part, then unscrew all the screws that secure the board to the bottom of the mouse body. Now that the board is unscrewed, lift it and carefully pull the wheel out of the scroll sensor. So we got to the faulty element.

The reasons for the malfunction may be as follows: the mouse scrolling mechanism has become loose, with such a malfunction we could simply press the four antennae with pliers and everything would seem to have been fixed, but with such a repair, at best, your mouse would have lived for another month. The malfunction could also be caused by dirty contacts of the rotating mechanism. So the next thing we need to do is disassemble the scroll sensor. We bend the four antennae that hold the insides of the sensitive element

and bend back the part that is soldered into the board with three legs

after which we pull out the drum, inside of which there are contacts.

That's it, the disassembly is complete, now all that remains is to remove it and put it back together. Take a cotton swab, soak it in some alcoholic liquid and wipe the contact surface. Now we put the whole mechanism back together in reverse order. After assembly, it is necessary to strengthen the mouse scrolling mechanism; to do this, you need to install a U-shaped bracket made of a metal plate.

Let's assemble the mouse and see the result of our labors.

3. PProblems with device detection by the system

Software errors in the operation of the manipulator are also possible. If possible, you should first check the operation of the mouse on another computer or laptop; if errors also appear, then most likely the reason is in the hardware of the manipulator. Software errors are possible, most likely with game controllers that require the installation of additional drivers or software; you can also update the drivers or hardware configuration in the device manager. Problems with standard devices software very rare. But, nevertheless, if problems arise, try to find and install the appropriate driver. Also check that the controller is working correctly USB port or PS/2. You may need to update your driver motherboard to fix the problem.

4 In addition to everything, there are also such malfunctions

1. Also the reason bad work buttons and scroll wheel is ordinary dust, or rather the dust that has accumulated inside the mouse body. After several months of use, a lot of dust, lint, hair and other contaminants accumulate in the mouse. All this is reflected in the operation of the scroll wheel. The wheel becomes stiff and scrolling may be uneven. You should disassemble the manipulator and carefully remove all dust and other dirt particles. Plastic case mice can be wiped with damp wipes or rinsed in warm water. Avoid getting moisture on the printed circuit board elements, and if this happens, do not use the mouse until the moisture has completely dried (preferably within 24 hours).

2. Another cause of problems with the mouse may be a broken wire. Due to vigorous use of the manipulator, thin wiring often breaks at the point where it is soldered to the mouse board or on the connector. In this case, you should also disassemble the mouse and look at the place where the wires are soldered, and also check the connector. If a broken wire or a soldered connector leg is detected, the fault must be corrected. If you do not have sufficient skills, then contact a specialist.

3. The next problem with the mouse may lie in the connector connecting the device to the computer. Modern manipulators are connected via a USB connector, but there are still devices on sale for connecting via a PS/2 port. It is this port that often causes various malfunctions. It's all about unreliable contacts and the ability of thin connector pins to easily bend and break off. If the contacts are wrinkled, they should be carefully aligned. In this case, you should be careful not to damage adjacent contacts. With connector USB problems with poor contact is less common and appears when the device is connected to a heavily dirty port.

Other errors in the operation of the mouse are most likely associated with the output of the device’s radio elements, and in this case, repairing the mouse yourself without special equipment is problematic. All that remains is to buy a new mouse.

Good luck to everyone and see you for the new renovation.